As I've gotten tired (and/or lazy) about having to plug/unplug the outdoor Christmas decoration lights, I finally got an outlet that can be switched on/off via a remote.  The one I got was labeled as a "Woods 32555WD, but there's no Woods logo anywhere on the product, which makes me think it's a product sold under a variety of brands.  On the label of the remote control (and the outlet itself) a sticker stated "CH 1." There's no accessible switches for setting it for a particular channel, so I decided to open it up:

From the PCB photo above, it became very obvious how it's done.  There's four traces: "A B C D." To set the channel,  on or more of the "A B C D" traces are disconnected, not by removing  solder bridge(s) in a civilized manner (or even better having DIP switches), but by grinding off a part of the trace(s .)  It's not exactly a nice way to do it, I suppose they decided on this brutal method to allow them to to make use of lower skilled and thus lower cost workers. Strangely enough, "CH 1" correlates to the D trace remaining connected. 

Onto the outlet tear down photos:

Inside, is a relay and the control circuitry is powered by a capacitive dropper circuit, not surprisingly.  Interesting enough, there's a second IC on a daughterboard dedicated to receiving RF. The remote only has one IC for everything.  There's a matching arrangement for setting the channel.  I did sit down and reverse-engineered it. If anyone wants to see the schematic I did, please do comment and I'll make a more legible version and post it. 

It claims to be weather resistant, but there isn't much in the way of gaskets, so it would be best to keep it away from any rain.

Good to know how to set the channel because there was no "user serviceable" option to select what channel I want.  If I get another, it's easy enough to set it to either a matching or different channel, depending on my needs.