CRT-Style Pi Portable — Pi Terminal

Pi _Terminal is a CRT inspired portable for the Raspberry Pi 4.
8in 4:3 Screen, UPS, HDMI Switch and a low profile cooler.

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The design was mainly inspired from industrial retro CRTs. The goal wasn't to be the most compact, but rather to have spacious and flexible enclosure to expand and build more within.

I used Autodesk Fusion 360 to design all the parts and PCBs. I love how the mechanical and electronic spaces are seamlessly integrated to ensure aesthetics, form and fit from the first iteration.

Initially I started this because I needed a way to consolidate several of my RPI projects instead of having dedicated ones, it's almost impossible to get them at a reasonable price at the moment. I plan on adding some storage and a multi-boot configuration to group them all in one place using only one Pi.

Checkout the full build video ↓

Supplies and Tools


  • Custom PCBs — Order from PCBWay or download the gerbers from Github
  • Raspberry Pi 4 Rpilocator
  • Raspberry Pi Low-Profile CPU Cooler Amazon
  • Pi-UpTime UPS 2.0 Amazon
  • 2 × unprotected 18650 Li-Ion — 3400mAh
  • IPS LCD 8 inch HJ080IA-01E with Driver Board Aliexpress Amazon
  • HDMI Switcher 2 in 1 Out Amazon
  • Hook-up wire Amazon
  • Dupont Connectors Amazon
  • HDMI cables (Adafruit - Aliexpress mix and match connectors to make the needed cables)
  • 1 × Micro HDMI to Standard Plug
  • 1 × Micro HDMI to Standard Socket
  • 1 × Standard HDMI Plug to Socket
  • 1 × Standard HDMI Plug to Plug
  • Micro to Micro USB cable (short)
  • 3.5mm Audio cable (short)

Control Panel Digikey BOM

  • 2 × 100 Ohms Resistors 0603 (1608 Metric)
  • 2 × 4 Ohms 2 W Small Speakers
  • 6 × Pushbutton Switch DPST-NO
  • 1 × Pushbutton Switch DPDT
  • 7 × Round Switch Cap
  • 3 × Green LEDs 1206 (3016 Metric) Vf 2.1V
  • 2 × 3.50mm Switched Headphone Jack
  • 1 × Header Connector 20 position (2×10 - 2.54mm)
  • 1 × Header Connector 4 position (2×2 - 2.54mm)

Power Adapter Digikey BOM

  • 2 × 5.1 kOhms Resistors 0603 (1608 Metric)
  • 1 × Rocker Switch SPST Panel Mount, Snap-In
  • 1 × Header Connector 2 position (1×2 - 2.54mm)
  • 2 × USB - C Receptacle Connector 24 (6+18 Dummy) Charging only
  • 1 × 2 Position Terminal Block
  • 1 × Jumper Connector (1×2 - 2.54mm)
  • 1 × USB - micro B Receptacle


  • 21 × M2.5 × 3.4 mm Heat-Set Inserts McMasterCarr
  • 8 × M4 × 8 mm Heat-Set Inserts McMasterCarr
  • 1 × Tripod 1/4"-20 Heat-Set Insert, 0.3" Installed Length McMasterCarr
  • 2 × Mini Pull Handles 3/4" Center-to-Center Width, 1/2" Projection McMasterCarr
  • 4 × Thumb Screws M4 x 6 to 10 mm Long McMasterCarr
  • 13 × Socket Head Screw M2.5 x 5 mm Long Amazon
  • 3 × Socket Head Screw M2.5 x 8 mm Long Amazon
  • 5 × Socket Head Screw M2.5 x 20 mm Long Amazon
  • 3 × Flat Head M2.5 x 5 - 6 mm Long
  • M2.5 Nylon Spacer Standoffs Amazon

3D printing and Finishing


  • 3D Printer (minimum 200 mm × 200 mm build surface) Amazon
  • Soldering Station/Iron. Amazon
  • Helping hands Amazon
  • Precision Screwdriver Set Amazon
  • Wire stripper Amazon
  • Crimping tools Amazon
  • Isopropyl alcohol
  • Sanding block
  • Flux, Solder and heat shrink tubing
  • Flush cutters, hobby knife, tweezers and pliers

⚠️ Some parts are optional and depend on the configuration you need. For example, if you use the UPS, you only need to populate the terminal block and 1 USB C socket in the power adapter, the same goes for the hardware and fasteners (further details below). You can adapt the build to suit your needs and remove any unnecessary parts.

Affiliate links may be included in the parts list. I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you.

Zip Archive - 71.99 kB - 06/21/2023 at 14:00


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Zip Archive - 103.98 kB - 06/21/2023 at 14:00


Adobe Portable Document Format - 196.38 kB - 06/21/2023 at 14:00


Standard Tesselated Geometry - 541.68 kB - 06/21/2023 at 13:59


View all 9 files

  • 1
    3D Printing

    Grab the STLs from Thingiverse or directly from this page.

    Just a heads up, this is a very long print compared to a quick weekend project, it's about 4 days of straight printing. In the video you can see how long each part took to complete. I spread them out over a week and had 1 failure and one almost 😬 where the support broke off mid-print. Luckily I was around to pause and hot glue it back to save the part.

  • 2

    It was the first time I tried this kind of finish and I must say that it makes a total difference but it requires considerable effort. It's up to you whether you want to go this route or if you're happy with the current state of the parts.

    ⚠️ With all the sanding and dust involved, I strongly advise doing this outdoors or in a well-ventilated area as well as wearing proper protective gear.


    I started by lightly sanding all visible surfaces with a coarse 240 grit to knock down the layer lines, after that I wiped it down with isopropyl and applied a thin layer of glazing putty to fill most of the cracks and defects.

    Once it dried, I went over it with 240 grit again, then 320 to further refine the surface. You can sand until you start to reach the high points on the PLA, this way only the dips and cracks are filled in and you don't alter the geometry of the model. Flat surfaces are quite easy, only the details and corners can be a bit tricky (patience).

    Again, a proper wipe down with isopropyl and it's time to use the filler primer. This will help fill in and expose the smaller crack defects and will also reduce the amount of sanding needed.

    I worked up the grits from 320 to 600 after the filler primer dried and I was ready to paint.

    If you want you can still do more filling with glazing putty and more coats of filler primer. Rinse and repeat until you are satisfied with the smoothness of the surface.


    Making sure the surface was clean and dust free, I applied 2 coats following the instructions on the can. Once it was completely dry after about 24h, I applied a matte clear coat to the visible sides to protect them.

  • 3

    There is few SMD parts to get out the way first in both the control panel (3 leds and 2 resistors) and the little power adapter boards (2 resistors)

    Next, the switches and the rest of the TH components. You might need a set of helping hands to hold the boards steady while positioning the components.

    Control board

    Make sure the switches and audio jacks are aligned properly, there is a bit of play and if you solder them crooked the buttons will end up looking weird. ⚠️ Both of the headers are soldered pointing to the inside of the case.

    Power Adapter (Option 1: with the UPS)

    The jumper on the power adapter is shorted and you can supply power to the UPS from the terminal block with 20-22 awg wire or the USB C receptacle. The main rocker switch will be connected to the on-off jumper on the UPS.

    Power Adapter (Option 2: no UPS, direct power to the Pi and screen)

    The jumper on the power adapter is connected to the main rocker switch to control the power coming in. The Pi and the screen are supplied from the USB C and Micro receptacles or the directly from the the terminal block.


    Lastly, solder the speakers to the control board with the shortest length wire possible to be able to fit them inside the 2 allocated slots in the 3d printed spacer.

View all 7 instructions

Enjoy this project?



Tom Nardi wrote 07/01/2023 at 05:57 point

Phenomenal build, love the finish work and attention to detail.

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Salim Benbouziyane wrote 07/01/2023 at 21:19 point

Thank you. I really like working on this kind of projects.

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Eric Min wrote 06/23/2023 at 12:34 point

Gotta say, this is the coolest cyberdeck/portable pi project I've ever seen. It looks incredible! Look forward to more of your work man

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Salim Benbouziyane wrote 06/23/2023 at 13:54 point

Thank you! I Appreciate It

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Salim Benbouziyane wrote 03/14/2023 at 15:25 point

Thanks! not going to stop anytime soon :)

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yassin ouakka wrote 03/14/2023 at 14:49 point

your work is under rated, loved the concept and hope you continue❤️🔥🔥

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