Love this project and excited to build it!  I have all the components and ready to assemble but wondering about in-circuit programming.  I see the pins labeled 10-13 and the comment below to power the AT85 using the Arduino.   It's not clear to me how to connect external power to the AT85 for programming once soldered into the PCB.   I didn't see a photo of the PCB with the AT85 soldered in but I assume it is direct soldered (not in a socket) .

UPDATE: I soldered everything into the PCB but it didn't turn on.  I desoldered the OLED and plugged it into a breadboard prototype of the entire circuit and it works fine there. A little awkward to play with naked buttons :)  I then soldered a 4-pin header to location 10-13 , and pins in vcc and ground.  I jumpered from the USBTinyISP programmer and successfully re-loaded/verified Tetris onto the AT85.  Then I resoldered the display into the PCB.  Sadly,  it still doesn't work.  I meter 3V at the AT85 and the display.  I'm stumped.

UPDATE 2: I soldered up another PCB (from OSHpark) using a new AT85 and a tested good OLED screen.  Same result as before: 3V metered at AT85 and OLED but nothing is displayed. Any debugging advice would be appreciated.  Is there a chance I got a bad batch of boards?  And, yes, I burned the 8Mhz bootloader and uploaded the program before soldering into PCB.

UPDATE 3: I wrote a small program to blink LEDs on PB3 and PB4 which map to the SCL and SDA pins on the PCB according to dombeef's schematic.  I successfully tested the program on a breadboard.  Next I soldered up my third (and last) pocketTetris PCB using sockets for both the AT85 and the display so I can test it easily. I installed the working AT85 in the socket and jumpered the SCL and SDA pins to my LED circuit on the breadboard.  LEDs don't blink.  I also checked continuity of the traces and their respective pins and they all seemed ok. 

Kinda bummed because I was excited about making one for my Tetris-loving wife.  I 3D-printed the case and buttons in her favorite colors too. At this point I'm really not sure what else to try.

Update 3: SUCCESS!  Finally discovered that my batch of PCBs did indeed have an issue.  Traces for two of the ATTINY85 pins were shorted together.  I was able to cut the PCB trace with a razor and add a small wire jumper to properly connect the orphaned pin.  Everything works now! 

Nice project, and great code. I made one yesterday - https://ibb.co/mHdEyT .I've also redesigned the PCB to take a GND/VCC/SCL/SDA 0.96' OLED since I can't seem to get the VCC/GND ones. That board is with jlcpcb.com at the moment. It will be interesting to see if it works, since it's my first PCB (even though it's only a small modification).

Thats awesome! And good luck!

Would you mind sharing your PCB redesign? Thanks!

Awesome. I had to hack the PCB because my battery holder was not of the expected type. I also implemented the battery on the bottom side, which I don't think was the designer's original intent. Besides that, it worked flawlessly on first power up! Recommended as a beginner project.

The battery holder is a BAT-HLD-001-THM (Linx Technologies). I'm only replying in case some future person should need it :D

Nice project. Got mine soldered but it doesn't turn on when I put the battery in. Can someone help?

I can try to help. My first thoughts are :

- Are you confident that you've successfully compiled the code and uploaded to the Attiny85 chip? Any warnings or errors in the process?

- Did you upload the bootloader to the Attiny85 first (before uploading the software) and set it for 8MHz internal clock?

- Does the OLED display you've bought have the correct pin order  (it should be VCC, GND, SCL, SDA in that order from left to right as you look at the front of the screen) if not, what is the pin order?

- Have you checked with a multi-meter to make sure that the power (3v) is getting to the display and the microcontroller pins (GND on pin 4, VCC on pin 8 of the Attiny85, as above for the OLED).

If none of this helps or if any of it makes no sense, let us know...

Only thing I did is flash the .ino to the attiny85 with my Arduino Uno (this was successful for other projects as well). Did not know about the bootloader. How do I do this?

 The OLED is good

Voltage is good as well

To burn the bootloader just select 'Burn Bootloader' at the bottom of the Tools menu in the Arduino IDE. First make sure that "Board" is set to "Attiny 25/45/85", "Processor" is set to "Attiny85" and "Clock" is set to "Internal 8 MHz".

If that doesn't work, let me know..

Ok so I made a new one and made sure I burnt the bootloader but still nothing. Does it turn on once you put in the battery?

Yep - should start up as soon as the battery is in. If you're still having problems, let me know..

Everything Andy Jackson wrote should have helped you out, is the attiny set to run on the internal 16 MHz? Also if it helps, I used this tutorial for first learning to program the attiny using my arduino uno(http://highlowtech.org/?p=1695), and to make it easier to program, i left the pins needed to program it on the right side of the PCB(The little pins by the resistors labeled 10-13, are for the arduino uno pins 10-13 used for programming. Just make sure to power the attiny off the arduino as well and not just use a battery)

Hi,

Could you please let me know what fuses are needed for this tu run?

Low fuse = 0xE2 (internal 8mhz)

High fuse I used 0xDE (Serial programming enabled and brownout at 1.8V)

Great!

Thanks.

This is awesome! So excited to see my Tetris code getting used and especially with such neat hardware - great work. Hat tip to Illya Titov who came up with the original Attiny Arcade concept, Anthony Russell, who did a neat version of Tetris for the full-size Arduino that inspired me to develop this, the Tinusaur project and everyone else mentioned in the source header :)  

Thanks! And that all is very true, i was inspired by the attiny arcade project but wanted to make a version with 3 buttons and have it more compact(Originally I planned to have the PCB give you the option to put the OLED screen in either portrait or landscape but wasnt able to fit it all in with the same dimensions, maybe version 2?)

Without your awesome optimized code this project wouldnt have ever happened!

:) your PCB looks great! I've ordered three and just received an email today from OSH Park to say they are on their way!

I have the boards! They are great and beautifully designed - I love the way you have made the battery holder. I've tweeted some pics here: https://twitter.com/andyhighnumber/status/916746692875218945 

What software did you use to lay the board out?

Thank you! I really tried to make it as compact as possible with only through hole soldering components. And I used kicad to lay out the pcb, and just photoshop for the simple little logo design.

And nice idea with rounding the edges!

Hi, I so loved the this build I made a couple myself and added some extra features for my wife like a pause button with timeout into sleep mode (left and right button hold together) so the battery doesn't drains so fast if she leaves it on pause. If you're interested; https://github.com/jjshortcut/PockeTetris 

Thanks!

This looks cool - I love the idea of a pause  mode - really useful as games can take a while! I've just ordered three of Dominick's boards from OSH Park - they look excellent :)

Whoah thats awesome! Next time I see my father ill upload your new modified code to it since I know he would like those added features!

The pause feature works really well - thanks! 

beautiful ! I didn't know that a mini tetris uses so few components. If you could take the time to make and share the schematic it would be great !

Thanks! I just added the schematic!

absolutely a work of art. What's your next project? I bet it'll be just as cool

Thanks! And ive got a few projects on the timeline, as well as one or two that im working on right now and will eventually get around to writing them up to hackaday.io

Neat project.  Any chance you could post a schematic in pdf format?

I actually havent made an actual schematic, I just threw it on a breadboard and then copied that over to the PCB, but if you give me a little bit ill create one when im not busy!

I just added the schematic if you are still interested

Great project!