Punk-ass 3D printer

Made with +/-plywood and stainless steel, buy all the parts or none, if you're handy with a hack saw!

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This printer uses threaded rods as both supports and as a means of controlling the Z-axis.
Will it work? Perhaps.
Will it be accurate? Depends on the rods and the design.
There are two variants:
1. 5th avenue punk-ass
2. the Bronx punk-ass
The plywood makes it look more street

Looking at the different types of fused deposition modelling 3D printers out there, I noticed thatt they fell into two broad categories:

  1. they needed 3D printed or injection molded parts
  2. they were made from laser cut MDF

As I didn't have a 3D printer or an MDF laser cutter, I thought about a structure that could be (mostly) made from lengths of square tubing and threaded rod.

The plywood variant would use plywood rectangles for the base and base cover instead of the more stylish square tubing supporting laminate flooring cut-outs for the electronics to sit on and as a protective covering.

I figured that if I could get the lengths right and the holes in the right places then it might be doable!

  • square tubing

    Philip Ashmore07/30/2015 at 01:20 0 comments

    I use threaded rod a lot!

    Along with wood it's my go-to material for making all sorts of jigs and prototypes.

    It turns out that a local company, Total Stainless, sells stainless steel square tubing, 6m-longX20mm-sideX2mm-thickness, so I bought some to see what jigs I could make with it.

    It turns out that you can't really use an angle grinder on this stuff and get a professional quality result, unless you're better with an angle grinder than I am, which I guess isn't that hard.

    Anyway, I came across a company called Mac Engineering, and they offered to cut my steel at no charge!

    I still had to put some holes into them, again, something I thought I could do on my own.

    It turns out that my use of M10 threaded rods including nuts and washers helped conceal some very dodgy holes, wearing out three drill bits in the process!

    In my next attempt at "scaling up for production" I forsee a plasma cutter encounter!

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jongscx wrote 07/13/2018 at 13:17 point

Not sure if you know this trick, but if you thread a nut onto the rod, THEN cut it, you can unscrew the nut through the cut bit and reform/deburr the threads so it's easier to screw nuts onto it.

Another tip is to put 2 nuts on either side of the cut line and use them as a guide for your hacksaw so your cut is at a right angle.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Philip Ashmore wrote 07/13/2018 at 19:30 point

Thanks, I usually also remove the half-threads with a dremel so I don't cut myself on them.

  Are you sure? yes | no

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