I've got a friend who makes a living making custom speaker systems/headphones/laser cut things, and as with many fields today, it's got a lot to do with electronics. Many of the things he does are one-offs, thus, it makes sense to re-purpose some Chinese boards sometimes just for the sake of adding a feature. Think "Hey, maybe you could add Bluetooth to those speakers of mine?" And that's exactly what one of my "workdays" was about recently.
There it is. A board he had spare, from an adapter which plugs into one of those iPod/iPhone docks which have built-in speakers, receives audio through Bluetooth and streams it to the said dock. Some of those docks have decent enough sound quality, thus it makes sense to add adapters, and some of those are just lacking Bluetooth, as we know, everything's better with Bluetooth. In the end, why have a dock that's suitable for your iPod but not for your Android phone?
Anyway, he didn't need that adapter and it was suitable for the task. Normally, it would just be a simple job of soldering a couple of wires and leaving it inside the speaker - just look at these testpoints!
But then, it wouldn't need me if it were so easy. He also wanted the adapter Bluetooth name replaced, since, you know, he's producing one-offs and putting his brand name on them so that people come and see - he's put a lot of work in these, and he really does - except for BT adapters, where it's no sense to reinvent the wheel. It'd be all good, but "I-WAVE" is not really his brand name, and it's not even nice-looking. Moreover, there wasn't really any process for changing it - as you can imagine with a custom product not even intended to be disassembled, not to mention soldered to.
Yes, that chip on the left side has all the markings erased. Those dicks, why'd you do that? I don't even understand what it does. It doesn't seem to work with USB, and yet it seems to be connected to the 30-pin connector. It seems to be some kind of PIC, Chinese manufacturers love thise and placement of VCC/GND pins seems like it. Also, it might be connected to the OVC3860's UART.
The OVC3860 seems to have been featured on Hackaday one time, and it seems it accepts custom AT commands. It also is available on more hackable modules that are intended to be connected to *duinos and such - here's one guy doing basically the same hack as me, and there seemed to be a nice forum thread ot two about it too. But whatever, I discovered them only later somehow, that's why you do your Google homework properly before hacking =D
I had to take a closer look:
Sorry for bad pics (that's the best camera I have). Anyway, if you don't see a 24C08 EEPROM, you'll have to take my word for it. And what's the best place for storing such things other than EEPROM?
Now, let's return to my workbench. As you can see, the shield has the I2C pins broken out (this is not my shield, it's an exact copy though):
Great. The only problem is alleged 5V-only operation, but AFAIK some 5V devices like this work on 3.3V, they just aren't tested on this. Anyway, I'll plug a male header in the 3V3-UART-I2C 2.54 female header and just solder wires to it:
That way, I can plug/unplug this chip whenever I want. I also can add a female header to the board the EEPROM was soldered to, to avoid soldering the chip to the board every time I need to test a new firmware image:
Now let's load dev-i2c, deadbug the EEPROM on wires the same way it was connected on the board, connect its VCC to the 3V3 supply and see if it's OK with 3V3, at least for basic operation:
root@raspberrypi:~# i2cdetect -y -a 1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f
50: 50 51 52 53
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