This is an idea of a HUD that will show you recent notifications on the phone it's paired with over Bluetooth (my Amazon Fire tablet HD7 for now).
My first idea was to use a VGA display with some sort of computer as the brain; a Raspberry Pi. After some research I found out those screens are about £100 and I've never used a Raspberry Pi before, but I'd learn how to if I needed. Leave a comment if you're interested about anything you see here or would like to help me, anything would be greatly appreciated.
Mitchell helped me with his app "ESP Alerts" it lets you choose which app will send notifications to the Esp32 chip. I couldn't use my Amazon tablet, gave me some errors but Mitchell gave me an APK and it downloaded successfully, don't know if it actually works though because I cant get the program onto the Esp32. Still working on that.
Esp32 Dev Module (Wroom32)
The "brain" of the HUD
TP4056 Charge Module
To charge the Lipo/li-ion battery
64x32 Monochrome OLED Display
To show images, text, etc
For the reflector, if i'm going to use one, or i'll use a prism if its cheap
This is the new screen holder that will hold the lens at the correct distance away from the display. The thickness of the green space between the two components is subject to change but if it gets too thick it will add weight and look odd since my goal is to make it look slim compared to other projects like this
Heres an update on how the project is going so far, really close to finishing. Just need to find a lens that will let me mount it as close as possible to the oled display but still keep the image in focus, then I need to make a mount that will hold the screen, lens and reflector as one piece. Bluetack and acrylic were used to allow the current lens to focus into my eye for testing.
Done with installing the main components, the walls of the 3D print were too thick so I used a rotary tool to carve some space out for the custom PCB that holds the ESP32, Boot button and space for headers to connect the serial converter. next is to play around with the optics and get the software running.
Shortly after the joy of 3D printing my first ever parts, I realised that I still havent been able to get my 64x32 OLED working with my Esp32. Maybe I just need to spend more time on it. Also having trouble trying to find a minimum configuration because I plan to take the Esp32 module off the dev board after programming but on the dev board there are two buttons "EN" and "BOOT". So for all this im going to use EasyEDA, a free online pcb and schematic creator, as well as JLCPCB for the manufacture of my boards.
Hopefully all goes well and I find a way to use an OLED with my esp32, in the meantime I need to see if I need a lens so I'll get an example sketch running on an arduino nano and wire everything else up to it then see if it works as expected, if not then I'll have a look at some old lenses I've collected.
First step, Designing the enclosure by looking at how Google Glass is designed, I noticed it was only as thick as it needed to be, i.e. the section between the battery and main board is very thin because it only has wires and ribbon cable going through it.
My design is a massive change from Alain's but that's because I wanted more of this project to at least be my own work but also fit my requirements too. In the picture below are the (very) rough parts I got 3D printed at my College (printer was a CubeX Duo, Complete pile of over expensive junk to be honest but I dont have >£150 to get myself a better one). You can see the main body, the lid for the main body, the "screen holder" and the lid for that too.
No idea what happened with the lid of the "screen holder" but it's a start. I'll 3D print these again anyway.
On the body, you can see two fork-like protrusions, these will hold the screen holder in place with a pin going through them, just for prototyping purposes. The body lid broke since it was only 2mm thick, ill superglue it and carry on. The walls may look too thick, thats because it is, it was meant to be 2mm thick but the printer made it 3.5mm thick. Ill need to level and set the z-gap offset next time I go to College.