Project Logs

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• Project Log #18: Many improvements. Experiments with BTooth MIDI

  XenonJohn • 11/02/2020 at 14:30 • 3 comments

  Many improvements to the code. 

  - Strange extra click sounds all removed. Generally smoother sound.

  - Buzz sound is now at same pitch as the (virtual) trompette string.

  - 2 melody strings one octave apart.

  - 2 screen display options: Original with notes on stave plus also a Do, Re, Mi style notation.

  - Remembers your last-used setup. Useful with bs-16i on an iPhone.iPad as that also will remember your last used settings.

  Hardware improvements.
  

  Have changed the right hand 3D printed motor/crank housing design to include two 5 pin sockets to accept MIDI devices. When used with a Yamaha MD BT-01 Bluetooth MIDI transmitter you can link to the iPad or phone wirelessly. When in wired (to phone) mode, as in the previous versions, the DG is powered by the phone up the USB cable. When in wireless BTooth mode, you need to plug the now unused USB cable into something else to power the DGurdy. Initially I tried a large phone power bank in a holder on the left hand end. However, as the power draw of the DG is low, I have now redesigned the left hand end main 3D print so it accepts a smaller 18650 cylindrical battery and charger module from a smaller phone power bank. This fits internally within the DG and is a very neat solution. The USB cable can still be hard wired to a phone or iPad as before so you now have both options for connecting to your device, a) wired via USB cable or b) Bluetooth, if you buy a Yamaha module or similar later on plus the battery cell for the left hand end (readily available all over the world).

• Project Log #17: Issues when connected to ios devices

  XenonJohn • 07/04/2020 at 18:45 • 1 comment

  The DG was intended to work with the free FluidSynth app, running on an Android phone.

  Some have tried it with an iPad for example running Bismarck bs-16i. This seems to work OK most of the time but there are some bugs. 

  The main one is that when you stop cranking, sometimes a note can get stuck in the ON state and you have to unplug and plug the DG in again to the iPad to restart it. Am working on a software upgrade to try and fix it but even if I send a MIDI command to turn off every single note if crank has stopped turning for >1 second, the issue still happens sometimes which makes me wonder if it is an issue with bs-16i. Working on it !

• Project log #16: Quick update on software and phones it works with

  XenonJohn • 05/31/2020 at 19:46 • 0 comments

  Quick update for people asking me what phones it works with, whether it works with an iPhone / iPad and potential PC based software.

  PHONES that definitely work using the (free) FluidSynth app for Android phones that I originally intended it work with:
  My old MOTO G4 works OK.
  Also from currently available new budget phones: 
  STK One Max    
  Nokia 2.2

  Apps that work:
  I have it working, as I originally designed it, with: 
  Fluidsynth Midi app (Free from Google Play store) on an Android phone.

  
  Others also have it working in these ways although I have not tried these myself yet:
  a) bismark bs-16i app on an iphone, [NOTE: You have to use the Apple camera adapter which is about GBP35], cheap ebay versions may not work.
  b) Also, Reaper with the TX16Wx software sampler plug on a PC.
  c) Also apparently works with a device called an Organelle M.       https://www.critterandguitari.com/organelle

• Project Log #15 Version 5 finally built using the PCB's

  XenonJohn • 05/19/2020 at 17:44 • 0 comments

  Have been involved in a ventilator project but finally got around to making a few of the V5 DigiGurdy's which have a custom PCB inside onto which everything connects. Also has the unpluggable Teensy 3.5 on the front under a white 3D printed cover. I have made 2 videos describing everything about this version, see below. All white / aluminium and now using white laser cut acrylic for the front and rear surfaces. I have made 7 so far.

  DigiGurdy Jenga.

  This is 15min long but explains just about everything. The screen flicker on the display is due to my GoPro camera, it does not flicker in real life !

• Project Log #14: PCB's have arrived for latest version

  XenonJohn • 04/26/2020 at 23:26 • 1 comment

  This is a very quick update. 

  20 PCB's have arrived from China which I can solder the microswitches to and also 2 rows of pin headers to allow the Teensy board to be plugged into the FRONT of the DigiGurdy. 

  The whole machine will be white as in the left-hander featured in Project Log 12b.

  The Teensy will have a small 3D printed removable plastic cover. This allows it to be unplugged and sent to me if not an Arduino enthusiast so I can mail it back to you with a software upgrade.

  It also allows an SD card to be slid into the end of it, should I wish to use that for something - working on it. For those who have suggested I design a custom board with WiFi connectivity for software upgrades, my answer would be that to do that I would have to employ someone and unless making 1000 of them, not much point. As it is I paid someone to design this PCB.

  It does speed up the build time considerably and is much neater.

  Other project taking up 99% of my time right now but I thought I would put one of these together just to check that it works - which it does.

  Photos below, just the electronics assembled for testing purposes.

  The USB lead will be held captive in the slot cut for it by the cover which will enclose the Teensy and this cable.

• Project Log 12b: Version 4, neater & easier to construct

  XenonJohn • 03/06/2020 at 22:18 • 0 comments

  Version 4

  - Many software improvements based on suggestions from Nigel Eaton, David Jacobs and others.

  - Have sorted out a reasonable set of tuning options. Startup menu gives you 6 tuning options. Trying to offer a reasonable selection for the more experienced, but not an overwhelming set of options for the beginner either. Select one and it will then show you how to set up the FluidSynth app on your phone so it all works correctly and sounds as it should. The software does not "know" how you have set up the phone app so this is the easiest way to set both up so they work with each other.

  - Many changes to the 3D prints so the whole thing holds itself together just using the 4 long screws at each end.

  - Alloy channel now runs the full length of the device, enclosing the larger gearmotor crank mechanism.

  - Using white laser cut acrylic panels rather than plywood.

  - White USB cable.

  - Going for an aluminium and white plastic effect, rather like an *pple product.

  - 6th tuning option allows you to set it up as a Tenor gurdy.

  These are all shown in the video below. Please note in the video below I am demonstrating them on a LEFT-handed version i.e. back to front !

  To come.......

  I am awaiting imminent arrival of some printed circuit boards onto which the microswitches will be soldered directly. This will eliminate most of the internal wiring and simplify the build further.

• Project log #12: Stronger Crank and many code changes

  XenonJohn • 01/24/2020 at 14:26 • 0 comments

  List of changes to original version based on feedback from a couple of early users:

  1) Much stronger crank mechanism based around a larger gearmotor in new 3D printed enclosure with a 6mm shaft. The bulb has been removed as if it blew, the system would not work as intended. Replaced with wire-wound resistor bridge. 

  2) No run-on when you stop cranking. Originally this was intended to help beginners as it would sound even if you momentarily stopped cranking.

  3) Keys do not play at all unless you are either cranking or have pressed the gaming FIRE button.

  4) Drones did not sound right in previous code when using tuning other than G/C. As the DG code has to be aware of your selected drones on the FluidSynth app on the connected smartphone, this has been addressed by the OLED screen offering you 4 tuning options on startup. Once you select one, it then tells you what drones to select within FluidSynth. This keeps it all working correctly. Tunings are: melody G / Playing in key of G;  melody G / playing in C;  melody D / playing in D;  melody D / playing in G. Trying to keep beginners from information overload but also keep more experienced users moderately happy.

  5) If you intermittently crank with a note key held down, it will sound the note each time, in previous code you had to release and re-depress the key.

  6) In new FluidSynth soundfont (V10 onwards) I have added larger choice of different loudness buzz sounds and keyclick sounds. PM me for the soundfont. I will send by wetransfer as large file.

  7) Repeat MIDI - off commands being sent out on some channels have been much reduced. With FluidSynth these were not noticeable but if attached to a more sophisticated synthesiser program running on a laptop, this could produce problems.

• Project Log #11: More design tweaks and assembling the first six.

  XenonJohn • 11/24/2019 at 15:19 • 0 comments

  I am assembling six DG's for some brave early adopters out there. 

  A few design changes: 

  i) On startup the software measures the voltage on the analog pin from the buzz-sensitivity potentiometer 200 times and calculates the standard deviation. If low, a crank module is present and if large it is not. This means I can use same software for both variants of the design. I have added a gaming button to the crank module now instead of a small switch, so you can play it by tuning the crank, or by pressing this button with right hand. If you want to remove the crank module at some point in the future, you can unbolt it, remove the glowing glass dome and remount the switch from the crank module into the hole where the glass dome was (it will fit exactly). Screw on an end blanking plate, which will be supplied and the machine will then work again just fine in crankless mode with no software changes required.

  ii) In demonstration mode there are now 22 songs.

  iii) Some changes to the code have been made allowing the crank buzz to operate a little more like the real thing.

  iv) Acetone polishing of the 3D printed keys: I want the stems to remain unchanged as they fit the slots in the wooden laser cut panels perfectly, but I do want the key ends to be smooth and shiny, i.e. I want to acetone vapour polish the ends of the keys only. The solution is to wrap the stems in aluminium foil before placing them into my vapour chanber.

  Despite using laser cut panels to reduce the amount of 3D printing, as you can see I have been on a 3D printing-fest for the past 3 weeks to produce all the parts required.

  Have experimented with various pushbuttons, the gaming ones work best.

  Just some of the acetone polished keys.

  Some of the laser cut panels.

  End structures and crank housings, printed and acetone polished.

  Six sets of microswitches mounted and wired up to Teensy boards along with the OLED screens.

  Key-Henge. My acetone polishing rig. The felt is soaked with acetone and held to inside of glass bell with magnets.

  Some nice potentiometers with gold anodized knobs.

  Alloy extrusions all cut to length.

  Fishing reel handles from China.

  Better photo of the acetone polishing rig.

  Self contained crank module wiring now has multi-pin plug to connect it to main body of the DG.

  Bags and bags of 3D printed upper and lower keys, all of which are in the acetone polishing queue!

• Project Log #10: New Build Videos 21/10/19

  XenonJohn • 10/21/2019 at 22:51 • 2 comments

  Here are some new build videos (in 2 parts as YouTube only allow a max video length of 15min. This is the new hybrid version made from laser cut 3mm ply, aluminium extrusions and 3D printed parts. The version shown here is the basic one without the crank module.

• Log #9: Redesign using laser cut ply to reduce 3D printing

  XenonJohn • 10/20/2019 at 21:50 • 0 comments

  October 2019: REDESIGN IS COMPLETE using laser cut ply for the front and rear panels to reduce the amount of 3D printing required somewhat, to reduce overall build time and also to reduce the time spent filing and fettling the keys, keyslots and so on to make everything fit and work smoothly.

  The set of files I have just uploaded all refer to this easier to build crankless version. All the information is there for you to build one. This has an arcade FIRE button on the front right hand surface. Just hold the right hand end in your right hand, press this button with your middle 2 fingers; the drones and open melody string will sound as if you had started to turn the crank, then you start playing.

  - A small amount of filing of the keys may be required but the laser cut ply parts require none at all.

  - The keys can easily be renewed if you break one.

  - Rear ends of the keys project from rear of keybox in a way more similar to a real HG.

  - Keys shaped to hit front deck just before the maximum microswitch travel is reached. This should better protect the microswitches if played too hard.

  I am working on a version of this with the previously described crank module. The build for that version will be 95% the same as this i.e. the extra wiring for the bolt-on crank module and slightly different code.

  The play button does not have to be lime green, they come in many other colours!

  Next project log will feature the crank version of this new design.

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