Close
0%
0%

Monoprice Select Mini V2 Modular Toolhead

The stock toolhead/carriage is replaced with a modular system that allows quick and easy toolhead changes.

Similar projects worth following
This modification greatly improves the Monoprice Select Mini V2's fuctionality by replacing the toolhead/carriage with a modular system consisting of a modified X-carriage and swappable toolheads.

The Monoprice Select Mini is a great 'first' 3D printer, especially for those who are unsure if this hobby is right for them, as well as for those who want a machine that is 'plug-and-play'.  However, many users find that they quickly reach the thresholds of the machine's capabilities due to the small build size, low power, etc.  I pushed the capabilities of the printer before finally adding several modifications due in part to design flaws (such as the damaged bed wiring), as well as to improve the capability of the machine (such as a printed extruder body to print flexibles, and an all metal hotend).  I am sad to say that the introduction of a new, larger and more capable 3D printer resulted in the MPSM being sidelined. even after these upgrades.

There are numerous replacement X-carriages available such as US Water Rocket's modifications for the MPSM V1: https://hackaday.io/project/14823/logs, but the majority of the designs seem to be built around a single toolhead, typically an E3D V6 hotend.  Some designs use the build-in M3 through holes for mounting, but this solution is not stable enough for my needs.  The replacement of the stock carriage is not a complicated process, but further upgrades to the carriage and/or toolhead are limited after the replacement due to the integration of the carriage and toolhead mounting solution.

The objective of the modification outlined in this project is to allow users to expand the capabilities of this machine by providing secure mounting of toolheads and various add-ons without complete disassembly of the machine for each variation.  The Monoprice Select Mini can become a test bench for various hotends, extruders, etc. and breath new life into the machine that may have been tucked in the corner.

Files can be found on Thingiverse:  https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5158484

Special thanks to Kadah for the excellent CAD model of the MPSM V2. This model helped ensure that the design's dimensions would work with the printer, while minimizing the need for trial and error.

KAdah's model of the MPSM V2 can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2681912


Please enjoy the project, and feel free to ask questions.

Cheers

January 11, 2022: Update:  I've used this modular toolhead to convert my MPSM V2 to a direct drive extruder that uses 2.85/3.00mm filament

https://hackaday.io/project/183470-mpsm-v2-direct-drive-for-285300mm-filament

3D_MPSM_v2_UpdatedXcarriage_29.9mm_Final_V01.stl

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 697.45 kB - 12/10/2021 at 01:03

Download

3D_MPSM_v2_UpdatedXcarriage_30.0mm_Final_V01.stl

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 693.73 kB - 12/10/2021 at 01:03

Download

STEP_MPSM_v2_UpdatedXcarriage_29.9mm_Final_V01_M3nuts.step

step - 753.07 kB - 12/10/2021 at 01:03

Download

3D_MPSM_v2_EndStop_Offset_2mm_Final_V01.stl

Standard Tesselated Geometry - 12.97 kB - 12/10/2021 at 01:03

Download

  • 1 × 3D printed X-Carriage Use a heat-resistant material due to close proximity to the hotend. Colorfabb's PA Neat is used in this project, but ABS/ASA or a material with a similar HDT should suffice.
  • 1 × 3D printed Hotend Mount Use a heat-resistant material due to close proximity to the hotend. Colorfabb's PA Neat is used in this project, but ABS/ASA or a material with a similar HDT should suffice.
  • 1 × 3D printed Hotend Clamp A heat resistant material is not required for this part. Please note that the clamp file is designed around an E3D V6.
  • 1 × 3D printed X-Axis Endstop Offset Optional, depending on the width of the hotend mount. HEat resistant material is not required for this part.
  • 2 × 3D printed End Cap Puller by Kadah https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2738089 Use socket head screws, at least 30mm long,

View all 15 components

  • 1
    3D print the required components
    • Use a high infill (40%+) with at least three perimeters (assuming a 0.4mm nozzle)
    • 1x X-carriage (use a heat-resistant material)
      • There are two versions - a 29.9mm spaced bearing carriage and a 30.0mm space bearing carriage.  Measure the distance between the rods using a Vernier caliper to determine the correct part for your printer.  The 29.9mm (labeled in the images) was used in this project
    • 1x Hotend mount (use a heat-resistant material)
    • 1x Hotend clamp
  • 2
    Clear the 3D printed holes as required

    The holes must be clear to allow M3 screws to pass through easily.

  • 3
    Clean and lubricate the two LM6LUU bearings.

    The bearings were cleaned using a bath of kerosene and 99% isopropyl alcohol, respectively.  White lithium grease was used as the lubricant in this project.

View all 29 instructions

Enjoy this project?

Share

Discussions

Tom Nardi wrote 12/16/2021 at 01:01 point

Love this idea, especially with how cheap you can get a used MP Mini these days. I actually came up with a similar tool holder for the PrintrBot Play, but by comparison its a much rarer machine.

  Are you sure? yes | no

MC88 wrote 12/17/2021 at 16:19 point

Thanks!  The overall concept is quite useful, especially for small print volume machines like the PrintrBot Play that may get replaced by larger, more capable machines.  What toolheads did you end up using on the Play?

  Are you sure? yes | no

Tom Nardi wrote 12/17/2021 at 22:25 point

Exactly, I got a larger machine and the Play seemed like a solid enough platform to build from. Especially since the design is open and I could import the CAD files for the original parts.

I did a small laser module and a marker, had plans to do a drag knife, but never got around to it. In the end, the geometry of the Play was kind of limiting because even though I had the extended bed, it only stretched out in one dimension. So you had something like a 6x4 inch area to work on, which wasn't really ideal.

  Are you sure? yes | no

h3nk wrote 12/14/2021 at 16:48 point

Fantastic! Can you please make a version for the old v1 with 24mm distance between the rods?

  Are you sure? yes | no

MC88 wrote 12/15/2021 at 07:29 point

Thank you!  I should be able to do that, but I have some concerns regarding the ability to insert the belt, as well as the relative positions of other components.  The only v1's that I am familiar with have a nominal 30mm X-axis rod spacing (for example US Water Rockets' design).  Are you measuring in between the rods or centre to centre?  If the distance is 24mm centre to centre, I'm curious about the positioning of the hotend  and belt, as I don't have any references.

  Are you sure? yes | no

h3nk wrote 12/15/2021 at 22:13 point

You are right. Center to center is 30mm (I measured the inner distance between the rods.) So the US Water Rockets is a good reference. thanks

  Are you sure? yes | no

Similar Projects

Does this project spark your interest?

Become a member to follow this project and never miss any updates