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POWER Pi Version 2

POWER Pi is an all-in-one Raspberry Pi PC project; the name comes from the built-in battery pack.

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Greetings to everyone, and welcome back.

This is Power Pi, a small, integrated Raspberry Pi PC with a built-in lithium-ion battery pack that allows the Pi to be powered wirelessly.
This is version 2 of the previously built Power Pi project.

A color palette in a Web app can be used to control RGB LEDs.

Because the Raspberry Pi's mounting pins are the same for all versions, our setup, which uses the Pi4 hardware, can run Raspbian with a 4K display or even Emulator OS without any problems. However, it can also be used with Pi1, Pi2, Pi3, and even the new Pi5.

POWER Pi Version 1

Let us explore the Power Pi that was previously constructed.

The primary component of the previous version was the power management board, which powered the Raspberry Pi board with four 3.7V 18650 cell holders.

In order to hold the power management board and Raspberry Pi together, we modeled a base and added a second Raspberry Pi holding part.

The configuration worked, but it had a few body-related problems that made it less durable overall. Next, there was a problem with the power management circuit, so we built our own battery pack using custom PCBs and installed two of them to power the Raspberry Pi in the updated version.

You can checkout the previous version at the below link:

https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/rgb-led-board-for-power-pi-2-4e7f7d

New Version: DESIGN


Given its five-section design, the Power Pi Version 2 is larger than its predecessor. The sections in question are as follows:.

TOP Section:

This is the top portion of the model, and it has two main components: the fan assembly part, which draws air into the Power Pi for air circulation, and the handle, which attaches to the outside of the top portion using two M3 bolts from each side.

To keep the Pi cool, a fan holder was added. This holds a standard small DC PC fan from the inside.

It is entirely redundant to add a fan, but if your workload involves more than just running retro emulators, do it in order to keep the Pi operating at its optimal temperature.

Pi Holder:

The pi holder is the section where we place the raspberry pi.

Because the Pi Holder is open on two sides, users may access all of the Raspberry Pi's I/O ports, including the power, HDMI, and USB ports on one side and all of the Ethernet and USB ports on the other.

In order to hold the Pi's position, we added four screw bosses that elevate the Raspberry Pi a few millimeters off the bottom face, creating a space between the Pi Holder's inside face and the Raspberry Pi's back.

Middle Section:

Between the Pi Holder section and the Battery Holder section, the middle section serves as a separating layer. This component essentially attaches the battery holder and Pi holder together.

Battery Holder Section:

One main function of the battery holder portion is to mount the battery pack PCB in the correct position.

We have modeled. a PCB with an SMD lithium cell holder; this is a PCB-based battery pack.

PCB standoffs are used to stack two PCBs on top of one another in order to increase the capacity of the battery pack.

We additionally mount both PCBs with the battery holder part using these standoffs.

We have slots on one side for adding switches and a DC jack for charging. The switches will be used to turn the Raspberry Pi and LED board on and off.

RGB LED Holder/Base:

This model's base part, the RGB LED holder or base, serves as the solid foundation for the entire structure.

Our design now has an RGB element and a gamer-like appearance thanks to the addition of an RGB circuit inside that lights up the entire base.

The RGB LED Holder/Base will be printed with transparent PLA to diffuse the RGB LEDs placed inside.

The following sets comprised the overall structure of the design.

We used three different PLA colors for each part: marble PLA for the Pi Holder and battery holder, orange PLA for the center area, and transparent PLA for the top section and base.

Furthermore, we have included a few nametags and logos with a cyberpunk theme.

By stopping the print in the middle and switching out the filament for a different color, we were able to print the nametags and logos utilizing double PLA color. We had to do this since we were using Ender 3, but if you are using a multicolor printer, you can bypass this setup completely.


Battery Board


The BMS and the DC Buck Module were the project's two primary components; therefore, we began the electronics design process by creating a schematic for...

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  • 1
    Battery Board PCB Assembly
    • We start the battery board assembly by adding solder paste to each component pad.
    • Next, we pick and place all the SMD components in their places using an ESD tweezer.
    • We set the PCB on our DIY REFLOW hotplate to heat it up to the temperature at which solder paste melts. Solder paste melts when the PCB reaches the melting temperature, and components are connected to their pads.
    • Next, we use a soldering iron to attach the SMD Li-ion Cell Holders from the bottom side.
    • At last, we added the Li-ion cells in their holders in the right polarity.

    The circuit is now complete

  • 2
    Battery Board Dual Assembly

    After creating two distinct battery pack boards, we need to connect them together to create a single battery pack setup. This is done by sandwiching the two boards with 45-mm-long M3 PCB standoffs.

    • Using four M3 bolts, we first install four standoffs on a single battery board.
    • The second board is then mounted using the extended PCB standoffs and four more M3 standoffs.
    • The end result will be a battery pack circuit made up of two separate boards connected by PCB standoffs.
  • 3
    Battery Section Assembly
    • The battery circuit is now positioned within the battery section part and fastened there with four M3 bolts.
    • The switches from both circuits are then unsoldered, and they are attached to the switch slots on the battery section part.
    • We reconnect both switches to the circuits.
    • In addition, we added a DC barrel jack to the battery section and connected it to the battery board's CON2 charging port using two wires. In order for both battery board circuits to be charged when the charger is plugged in, we additionally connect the CON2 charging ports of both circuits in parallel.

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