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AL3065 4-Channel LED Driver

A high power 4-Channel LED driver using the AL3065 IC

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The sister project to my low power LED driver, this is a board which is capable of driving higher currents (up to 250mA per string), with absolute maximum output voltage of 60V according to the datashsheet, and limited by external components. This driver will be used in a "sunrise alarm-clock" type project which has not yet been completed.

Low power LED driver: https://hackaday.io/project/20023-al3050-led-driver-for-a-torchlight

AL3065 Kicad Project (Schematics and PCB layout).zip

I make no claims that the circuit will work, or the values marked on the schematics/pcb are correct. I've only uploaded this as reference in hopes that it will help someone wanting to do something similar.

x-zip-compressed - 275.89 kB - 05/10/2018 at 07:02

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  • 1 × SPMWHT541ML5XAT0S5 (LM561C) High Efficiency 196 LED 196 lm/W, 200mA Max, Forward Voltage ~2.75V
  • 1 × AL3065 4-channel LED Driver 250ma per channel, output max 60V
  • 1 × AOD4184A N-Channel MOSFET MOSFET N-CH 40V 50A TO252 17ns Rise/Fall
  • 1 × SRN8040TA Inductor 10 uH 4.6 A 33 mOhms inductor
  • 1 × Fast Diode (forgot which one)

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Carlos Reverbel wrote 08/15/2017 at 01:22 point

Hello drojf, I am thinking of using this IC in a project, once I have not found a similar project on the Internet I would like to ask you if your design worked fine and if you have any recommendation. Thank you!

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drojf wrote 05/10/2018 at 06:59 point

Sorry for the late reply, but maybe someone else will find this useful.

There didn't seem to be any obvious gotchas with the AL3065. I do remember having problems getting it working at the start, but that was just because my power supply was current limiting. Make sure you have a decent power supply that can actually supply the current you expect.

In terms of the LEDs you connect to, if I were to do this all again, I would use these: https://www.digikey.com.au/product-detail/en/BXEB-L0560Z-50E2000-C-B3/976-1735-ND/7907664 or similar aluminum led light strips, since they are very cheap and efficient. The can take a higher current as they are wired in parallel (and I assume the LEDs matched such that you don't get thermal runaway). There are various different types available on Digikey, under LED COBs (search by highest lumens/Watt).

On my PCB I don't think I allocated a jumper/header for measuring current - this would have been useful. Allocating multiple spaces for the current sense resistor instead of one big hole is a better idea. Now that professionally manufactured PCB costs have come down, might as well make your initial board quite large so it's easier to play around with.

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