3D-Printed Electric Longboard

Fully 3D-printable electric longboard drivetrain with built-in idler system.

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The drivetrain (motor mount and idler system) is fully 3D-printed and uses various screws, bearings, nuts and bolts to ensure that there is no flex in the plastic components.

This board can reach speeds of up to 42 km/h and has a range of over 16 km. The average pace of daily rides is around 15 - 20 km/h. It weighs around 8 kgs.

I have designed the idler system so that there will be no belt skipping even during hard braking, which is important for safety.

The goal was to design a 3D-printable motor mount which is robust and strong enough to withstand large forces even during hard braking. The electric longboard has since replaced my bicycle as my main transportation device. As of March 2017, the electric longboard has covered over 150 km. I constantly dis- and reassemble the motor mount to clean the components and also to make sure that there are no hidden fractures. So far it is holding up and I will continue to monitor the mount during the entire test phase of 1 year.

Motor Mount 18_12_2016 v46.f3d

Fusion 360 Archive File. Should be able to edit the axle.

f3d - 5.31 MB - 04/10/2017 at 20:35



Standard Tesselated Geometry - 1.53 MB - 03/20/2017 at 23:24



Standard Tesselated Geometry - 990.51 kB - 03/20/2017 at 23:23



Standard Tesselated Geometry - 140.22 kB - 03/20/2017 at 23:23



Standard Tesselated Geometry - 259.26 kB - 03/20/2017 at 23:23


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  • PETG or ABS?

    yowhwui03/30/2017 at 12:32 0 comments

    The motor mount is under a lot of stress during braking and the motor side will tend to flex towards the outer side of the board. I looked into two different polymers commonly used in 3D-printing that has relatively good stiffness and weather resistance. PETG was stiffer than ABS and in that case was a suitable candidate for the motor mount. After testing however, the dynamic forces acting upon the mount caused the PETG mount to crack. It was stiff but it was also too brittle. In the end, ABS was the suitable choice as it offers sufficient rigidity as well as flex during dynamic loads.

  • Motor Mount Design: Securing Mount Radially

    yowhwui03/21/2017 at 19:02 0 comments

    One of the challenges with plastic motor mounts was to secure it against rotational forces around the axle. Sheer clamping force would not suffice as the material would fatigue under constant load. This was the reason these trucks were chosen as a suitable candidate as it has a rib geometry on both sides. The ribs contribute to the surface area in which the mount can hold onto. It was a matter of reconstructing the varying cross-sectional areas through trial and error in Fusion 360. It the end, I combined three different cross-sectional areas and used the "Loft" function to recreate my axle. I then 3D-printed test pieces to ensure a snug fit. It took me around 7 iterations to get it right.

View all 2 project logs

  • 1
    Step 1

    Step 1: What You'll Need


    1. Variable Wrench
    2. Pliers
    3. Hex Wrenches
    4. Wire Cutter
    5. Wire Stripper/ Knife
    6. Skateboard T-tool
    7. Phillips Screwdriver
    8. Hammer/ Rubber Mallet
    9. Soldering Iron
  • 2
    Step 2

    Step 2: Wheels and Trucks

    In this build, I used 90 mm ABEC Flywheels with these gears from Thingiverse. (Designer: brentyi) The design I chose was the HTD5 9 mm 40 Teeth gear. They require 6 x M5 x 73 mm Socket Screws and 6 X M5 Nylock Nuts. Once you have chosen your gear, your timing belt and pulley also has to be HTD5, 9mm wide.

    Next, mount your trucks along with riser pads in order to increase clearance between the board and ground.

  • 3
    Step 3

    Step 3: Motor Mount

    So, this is basically the most tedius part of the build if you are looking to design a motor mount out of ABS that can withstand large braking forces. The files can be found on my Thingiverse. It has been designed in such a way that you can remove it when you want to, but stays exactly where it is during riding. I wanted to test the limits of 3D-printed components and after 150 km (as of March 2017), I can say that it is holding up very well. Most builds use metal and weld the mount directly onto the trucks, which is fine too.

    First, insert the 2 x M8 Nylock Nuts into the slots at the axle and screw in the 2 x M8 Set Screws from outside. This will help the mount grip onto the axle. Next, slide the motor into the mount and insert the 4 x M5 Washers into the mount. Next, use 1 x M5 x 16 mm Machine Screw on the axle side to hold the motor in place. The idler system will be using the other three holes in the next step. Now you can attach the pulley wheel to the motor to test out the fit. The BLDC motor I am using has a 10 mm shaft, so make sure the pulley also has the same bore size. Make sure there is no contact between the pulley wheel and the mount. Do not permanently mount the pulley yet, we still need to adjust it later.

    Your Own Design

    You can design your own mount by first drawing your trucks in CAD, this is quite a tricky process but after a few tries you will get it, don't give up too quickly. Next, you'll need to measure and record all the dimensions on your motor and trucks. Then, start drawing a primitive shape that will hold the components together. Once you feel quite confident, you can print your first prototype either on your own or using a service like 3DHubs and try to iterate from there. Constantly take notes on what to improve and incorporate it into your next design. On Fusion360 it took me 45 Versions and 6 printed prototypes to get to my end goal, you might require less tries. I also used Parametric Modelling to help me change the dimensions easily to get the perfect fit. Do not be discouraged, it is well worth it ;).

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EngineerAllen wrote 05/04/2017 at 11:22 point

how much does it cost to make this?

i have had plans to convert old scooters for ages

  Are you sure? yes | no

yowhwui wrote 05/25/2017 at 19:05 point

Hello EngineerAllen,

the budget ranges between 200 - 800 USD depending on the type of battery, ESC and DC motor used. The parameters to consider are torque, range and functionalities.

  Are you sure? yes | no

EngineerAllen wrote 05/25/2017 at 20:54 point

well the 18650s will be at least $300

ESC & motor $200

chassis .. ?

RC $50?

  Are you sure? yes | no

Neon22 wrote 04/10/2017 at 06:12 point

Congrats - looking very good. I like the idler on both sides. Caliber trucks are more common here for electric conversion. I haven't seen your brand before.
Check out my 3D risers here -
I'm going to try this in annealed PLA. I use XTC-3D as a covering - scratches easily but covers very well.

  Are you sure? yes | no

yowhwui wrote 04/10/2017 at 19:14 point

Thanks for your feedback. Yeah i realized not everywhere offers the same trucks. I'm here in a Germany. Nice like your design keep it up

  Are you sure? yes | no

yowhwui wrote 04/10/2017 at 20:37 point

I've added the Fusion 360 file if someone would like to edit the file and fit it on their trucks or improve on it.

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Kaili Hill wrote 03/21/2017 at 00:01 point

I'm curious how the parts are holding up to road conditions. I normally coat my printed parts in epoxy or polyurethane to give it some weather ability.

What motor are you using? I'd like to try my hands at something similar as well.

  Are you sure? yes | no

yowhwui wrote 03/21/2017 at 18:46 point

Hi Kaili, I am using a 192 kV 6374 BLDC motor. It means that it is 63 mm in diameter and 74 mm long. I think the polyurethane is a good idea. So far I make regular cleanings and check for material fatigue and after 150 km it is still solid. Will keep updating along the way!

  Are you sure? yes | no

EngineerAllen wrote 05/04/2017 at 11:22 point

why not a cheaper simpler DC motor?

  Are you sure? yes | no

yowhwui wrote 05/25/2017 at 19:06 point

I wanted the board to be able to go uphill with a 30 degree slope carrying a 100 kg rider. It all depends on your requirements.

  Are you sure? yes | no

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