- Add a status/charging LED, if possible.
Raspberry Pi Zero-based emulator in an NES controller case. Powered by LiPo battery and Adafruit Boost Charger.
PDF version of the Eagle Schematic.
Adobe Portable Document Format - 103.94 kB - 02/17/2016 at 03:25
Eagle Schematic file for the wiring.
sch - 162.58 kB - 02/17/2016 at 03:24
I have modified the Bill of Materials and assembly steps to include information on how to use an aftermarket iPhone 5 battery (~1500 mAh) instead of the 500 mAh LiPo.
I have done an initial charge test and play test for about an hour. The battery never got hot on me so I'm assuming that all is well with this modification. Keep in mind that this hack uses an Adafruit PowerBoost charger with a battery that it wasn't designed for.
Currently looking at using an Iphone 4 battery for this project's juice. It's around 1400 mAh... So about triple the current size and dirt cheap on eBay. If it doesn't melt or explode things, I'll do a write-up on how to use them instead of the 500 mAh LiPo.
I moved my files over to Thingiverse so I would have a single repository to update when sharing this project on multiple websites. The URL is in the links section. For convenience, it is also pasted here.
I will be moving the files to Thingiverse. However, it won't let me publish for 24 hours after creating a new account. In the mean time I've attached the files to this project.
Making tweaks to Pi Zero mounting placement and HDMI port opening. Hope to have a new STL file in a day or two.
I let a 6 year old play with my NESPi Controller yesterday. He kept pulling the HDMI cable loose from the controller. It needs a better fit. Lesson learned: If you really want to test the design of your device, let a young kid play with it...
Disassemble the NES Controller and cut off the cord. I built out everything on a breadboard so I crimped some Dupont ends on to the wires. However, if you are a brave soul, you could skip straight to stripping and tinning the ends of the wires with a soldering iron and proceeding with the build out. I would really encourage a breadboard build if you can. The reason for this is that the instructions for the software driver state that everything will work fine with 3.3V power. However, my controller was unresponsive until I gave it 5V. See below link for reference:
Breadboard all the connections according to the schematic attached to this project. I somehow lost my picture of the completed breadboard, so here's a picture of a half-completed breadboard. :-)
For the Pi connections, I loosely soldered breadboard wires to the GPIO pin holes with just a tiny bit of solder. Later on for final assembly I desoldered them by heating, gently pulling the pins out, and using a solder sucker to clear the holes.
For the boost charger, I did solder a pin header in and later cut the black plastic apart and desoldered the header pin-by-pin using the same method as above.
Be sure RetroPie boots and your controller inputs work. More on the configuration of RetroPie and RetroArch later in the instructions.
Yes this pictures shows a 2000 mAh battery. I really wanted it to fit... I had to downsize my dreams mid-project to fit the available space in the case.
3D print the controller back with your 3D printer or your favorite printing service. Pop the switch in to the finished print.