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LoFi

LoFi is a very low cost ($5), small, auto-transmitting module. Preassembled and preprogrammed. Simply attach to your appliances or projects!

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Like many hackers and hobbyists, we dream of a smart home. Although there are third-party transceiver modules and data loggers on the market, they are too expensive and complicated to deploy in volume.

LoFi is a very low cost ($5), small, auto-transmitting module. All you need to do is to attach the modules to interesting appliance circuit points or sensors throughout your home and garden. The data arrives on your PC or can be sent to the Internet with a WiFi hotspot.

No programming, no protocols to learn, and no carrier boards for you to make. Just attach!

Using your desktop or laptop, you can set trigger levels on individual modules to tell them when to transmit. For example, send an update when the voltage changes by more than 1 V on the vibration sensor near the garage door opener. You can also set the module on a timer, such as hourly on your garden monitor.

The possibilities are endless!

SENDER

The sender is compact (1.25 sq. inch) and operates from 1.8 to 5.5 V. The module consists primarily of an Atmel ATtiny84A which monitors the inputs and outputs the data. A red and green LED provides visual status.

The sender module has:

  • Five analog inputs with configurable triggers
  • Digital trigger
  • Built-in temperature sensor
  • Battery voltage measurement
  • Optional CR2032 coin cell holder
  • Optional pushbutton to manually activate data transmission

CONFIGURATION

Without any programming knowledge, the sender module can be configured to transmit:

  • On power up
  • When any analog input goes above a certain value
  • When any analog input goes below a certain value
  • When any analog input changes by more than a certain amount
  • Periodically from 1 second to 18 hours

Configuration is accomplished using a laptop or desktop connected via a standard FTDI serial cable.

LOW COST

The sender costs only $2.43 in parts (qty 1000) or $3.50 (qty 10). Think of all the things you can monitor at that price -- in the garage, basement, garden, kitchen, or bedroom.

LOW POWER

The sender uses only 18 µA on average. This means it can be installed in small places while running on a coin cell, or can be virtually maintenance free with a pack of AAs.

CONNECTEDNESS

The LoFi gateway listens to all of the senders and uploads the data to a PC or to the Internet. LoFi is compatible with data.sparkfun.com (aka Phant), a free open-source Internet repository. As demonstrated in the Semifinals video, you can connect LoFi to the Internet in under 2 minutes.

INTERFACE

The interface couldn't be more easy. On the sender, simply solder sensors to the standard 0.1-inch pitch holes. No programming necessary. On the PC, the software walks you through each connection step and lets you modify device configuration in a friendly UI.

Non-proprietary output means you can use all of the repository tools written for Phant (or for the JSON, XML, tab values it provides). The output from the Gateway to the PC is tab-delimited plain text, so you can log it in a terminal program or write your own software regardless of OS.

LEARN MORE

Battery Life Expectancy (1 year on coin cell, 10 years on AA)

Message Delivery Rate (>95% success rate)

Dealing with Static: Auto Gain Preamble and Error Correction

LoFi as a Solar-Powered Weather Station (temperature and light levels)

LoFi Detecting Garage Door State (tilt ball switch)

Artist Rendition of Productized Look and Feel (contest requirement)

Sender Schematic

Good Things Come in Small Packages (fitting into a pill bottle and iPhone charger)

  • 1 × C1 Capacitor 10µF 16WV (CC1206ZKY5V7BB106)
  • 1 × IC1 Microcontroller, SOIC, ATtiny84A (ATTINY84A-SSU)
  • 1 × J1 Connector, 6-pin right-angle female socket (PPPC061LGBN-RC or 801-87-006-20-001101)
  • 1 × LED1 Status LED, 1210, bicolor (LTST-C155KGJRKT)
  • 2 × R1, R2 Current-limiting resistor, 220Ω 5% (RC1206FR-07220RL)

View all 9 components

  • Did I Leave the Stove On?

    David Cook09/28/2014 at 20:05 0 comments

    Have you ever left the house and had that little voice in your head say “Did I remember to turn off the stove?" Or maybe you're concerned about a loved-one living independently. With LoFi, you can eliminate needless worry.

    Here is an example application where LoFi wirelessly monitors a stove using an adjustable heat detector. The steel casing is magnetically mounted so that it is out of the way, but does not require permanent installation.

    You can see this in action towards the end of the Semifinals video.

    TECHNICAL DETAILS

    Contactless temperature sensors provide an opportunity to instrument major appliances without opening or altering them. It is possible to connect a wireless transmitter to the LEDs on a modern oven display to determine if the stove is active. However, a less invasive technique is to simply measure the temperature externally using infrared.

    The Melexis infrared sensor (MLX90614) sees -70C to +380C. It is as simple as aiming the sensor at the stove top and measuring the temperature. LoFi transmits changes in the analog value, and can trigger transmissions on either those changes or a digital trigger pin.

    The Melexis thermal sensor can be read with either I2C or PWM (app note). LoFi is designed for analog inputs. To convert the Melexis PWM output to analog, attach a 10 kilohm resistor and 0.1 μF capacitor to the output pin.

    For user friendliness, I wanted an adjustable “on" threshold and an indicator light. Because only one input pin is needed by LoFi, it would have been cheapest, smallest, and easiest to modify the code to have LoFi's ATtiny chip perform the comparison operation and light the LED with the spare pins.

    For the sake of being a purist, I instead chose to create an interface board containing a comparator, so that LoFi would still be considered 'stock'. That is, this was an opportunity to document a solution for people that aren't comfortable with programming.

    The TLV3702 was chosen because it works down to 2.5 volts. C2 and R2 convert the IR sensor PWM to analog. R3 is the adjustment threshold for determining when the stove is 'on'.

    Below is the implementation of the circuit. Again, the comparator is only necessary if you don't want to modify the LoFi source code.

    There are a wide variety of interesting things to monitor in a home. With LoFi, the price is low enough to make it affordable.

  • You've Got Mail!

    David Cook09/17/2014 at 04:39 0 comments

    A wireless mailbox notifier lets you know when the postal mail has arrived in your mailbox. This can be particularly helpful if your mailbox is not immediately adjacent to your front door.

    The mailbox notifiers I've seen usually rely on detecting when the mailbox lid is opened (hall effect sensor or tilt switch) or when a person approaches (motion sensor). Those are fairly successful methods -- but I didn't want to repeat what other people have already done. Also, those methods don't take into account whether mail is waiting or instead the homeowner simply triggered the lid sensor by anxiously checking their empty mailbox.

    Instead, I'd like to check for the presence of something in the box. A hacked postal scale would be highly effective, but would be awkward to fit. So, I'm going to use a reflected sensor: emit infrared light and measure the amount that returns. A white envelope or glossy magazine reflects significantly more light than an empty box. And, because LoFi transmits analog values, a threshold doesn't need to be tweaked between 'detect' and 'non-detect' states.

    Here's the schematic: (which is attached to LoFi)

    The 22 kilohm resistor forms a voltage divider with the phototransistor. A change in light (either due to sunlight entering due to the box being opened or due to reflection off of mail) changes the conductance of the phototransistor, and thus the division of voltage. That voltage is fed into a LoFi input.

    Two infrared emitters (LEDs) are placed in series with a current-limiting resistor to provide a light source. The second emitter is powered for 'free', as it simply uses power that otherwise would have been burned off in the resistor. On average, about 20 mA will flow.

    GREAT SCOTT!

    Twenty milliamps will drain the battery pack in less than a week! I thought LoFi was supposed to be low power?

    LoFi has a pin that provides GND only when the sensors are being read. Thus, when LoFi is sleeping (98% of the time), the emitters are off. Therefore, the AA pack will last years.

    For the case, I found some small plastic jars with colorful screw-on lids (Amazon B00523WBK2). This is attached with yellow Sugru.

    HOW WELL DOES IT WORK?

    As you can see below, the infrared reflective sensor detects mail very well. Over time, it will be interesting to see what different bunches of mail look like. “Either we just received a ton of mail, or one very glossy white envelope."

    I'm not sure why the detection increases slightly over time when staring at mail. Either the mail is settling or the phototransistor has both a fast and slow component to its detection properties. Perhaps it follows a curve like a capacitor?

    I did encounter one issue, which is that 433 MHz transmitter was completely shielded inside the metal box. I managed to snake the antenna out one of the bottom drain holes, after enlarging the hole slightly with a drill. Fair warning, you may need to seek permission from your spouse and homeowners association. ; )

  • Gateway

    David Cook09/17/2014 at 02:59 0 comments

    The gateway listens to one or more senders and passes the data to a PC, or via WiFi to the intranet/Internet. This allows you to collect data locally or with a server.

    The gateway consists primarily of an Atmel ATmega328 microcontroller that reads the 433 MHz receiver and writes to the FTDI serial cable and CC3000 Wi-Fi board.

    Below you'll find the schematic. It begins with Schottky diodes for reverse battery protection and to allow multiple power source to be connected at the same time without affecting each other. This is followed by PPTC self-resetting circuit breakers for overcurrent protection. Finally, a Zener diode provides overvoltage protection. Because most people will only own one gateway, the extra cost of those protection parts is not a significant amount compared to an overall system.

    Notice that most of the pins are not connected to onboard components. Because the purpose of this board is to route messages, most of the pins lead to external connectors. Many spare pins are available, as this chip was selected for its speed, RAM, and surface-mount package.

    You can examine the PCB and Gerbers in the LoFi-PCB-Layouts.

  • Productized Artist Rendition

    David Cook09/14/2014 at 21:11 0 comments

    A requirement of TheHackadayPrize Semifinals is to post concept art for the productized look and feel of the project.

    The initial release of LoFi is primarily aimed at the hacker and electronic enthusiast community. Therefore, the first official product would likely be a starter kit.

    The starter kit would include all of the parts needed to set up an entire system. A reduced starter kit could drop the AC adapter and WiFi board, for customers that only want to connect to a PC. A deluxe starter kit could include a variety sensors and a precision calibration board.

    TURN-KEY PRODUCT

    Some people prefer to avoid handling the electronics or providing their own cases (even if only fished from the recycling bin). For those customers, an injection molded case prepopulated with light and tilt sensors would be preferable.

    The produce would take three AAA batteries to provide a long lifespan. A less expensive edition might exclude the spare pins and programming port.

    TINY TURN-KEY PRODUCT

    As you can see in an earlier post, LoFi fits nicely in space spaces and can operate only a single coin cell. However, it can be tedious hand-wiring a small device. Therefore, it would be awesome for someone to manufacturer LoFi in a coin-cell sized case.

    This would allow anyone to use LoFi in small spaces.

  • Good Things Come in Small Packages

    David Cook09/02/2014 at 05:01 0 comments

    I’m experimenting with some novel enclosures for various installations of LoFi around the house and yard. I need to make an impact for the stage 3 judging.

    I ordered some more m&m’s candy tins, because they are an excellent size and have a clear top window. When you buy them, you can customize the candy pieces with logos and writing. So, I used the Hackaday Prize logo.

    LOFI in an IPHONE CHARGER

    I appreciate the industrial design talent at Apple. Here is LoFi inside of a standard Apple power adapter, which is approximately 1 inch cubed (25 mm). In the USB slot, a small panel holds a light sensor, an ice cube LED, and the antenna. Yes, it really works.

    The main board holds the CR2032 coin cell and has a standard 0.1 inch header for the transmitter and accessories. There is enough room leftover in the center for additional sensors.

    LoFi runs for over a year on a single coin cell. Although I usually use a plastic holder, metal holders are cheaper and use less space. I designed a LoFi board with pads on the back for the ground terminal of the cell, and then bent the metal holder tabs around to the front of the board to attach the positive terminal.

    Unfortunately, I made a mistake. Upon inserting the coin cell, nothing happened! I checked my connections, looked for shorts, and even wrongly suspected the new ultra low dropout diode.

    The problem turned out to be my failure to account for the height of the solder mask. You see, the solder mask goes on top of the copper layer, and thus is slightly higher. The back of the coin cell was resting on the solder mask and not making contact with the pads on the back of the board. Applying a thin layer of solder to the pads raised it up enough to make contact.

    LOFI in a TUBE

    I have a really interesting application where LoFi needs to fit inside of a 1-inch circular tube, rather than 1-inch square. The tube was machined from a green medical grade Delrin/acetal block.

    As you can see, LoFi managed to squeeze inside. A blue lens is machined to fit on top.

    To make LoFi fit in the smaller space, I needed to insert a longer header in the front of the transmitter and bend it back 180 degrees (see red arrow below). However, this would not be necessary in a production device, as you'd use a smaller connector. Anyway, bending the connector allows the socket to overlap the bottom of the board and close the gap (blue arrow). There is enough room in the tube to fit a helical antenna – with the accompanying reduction in range, of course.

    LoFi can now fit into a standard prescription pill bottle. A vibration sensor (added after the photos were taken) detects when someone is opening the bottle. The light sensor with the blue filter detects a significant change in brightness compared to when it was within the orange bottle.

    From this prototype, I determined that a pushbutton switch recessed in the side of the tube would be superior, as it would detect that the cap had been removed (rather than the bottle just shaken) and it would work in darkness.

  • Outdoor Temperature Monitor

    David Cook07/20/2014 at 03:13 2 comments

    In the previous logs, I've shown LoFi in the remote corner of the basement and in the garage. Now, LoFi ventures outside to the garden to measure temperature and light levels.

    A 'My M&M' silver favor candy tin (intended for weddings or parties) is the perfect size container for LoFi, the AM transmitter, a solar panel, coin cell (underneath the PCB), and various sensors. A clear lid permits light but blocks bugs, dirt, and hopefully rain. The transmitter antenna wire sneaks out the side through a #54 drill hole.

    A foam liner was added to the candy tin to avoid electrical shorts. Even though the container has a non-conductive coating to avoid contaminating the candy, I've been burned by scratched or worn areas in the past.

    When there is adequate sunlight, the solar panel powers the device. This solar panel was chosen because it fits so well, and provides the maximum voltage with good current. At full sunlight, the panel likely exceeds the ATtiny 5.5 V operating limit, but will stay under the absolute maximum of 6 V and has some voltage dropped by a Schottky reverse-protection diode.

    The ATtiny internal temperature sensor and voltage reference are 'no-cost' inputs. An added photocell provides brightness data, and was selected to be sensitive to conditions after the solar panel yielded to the backup battery.

    With wireless, it is nice to get immediate readings rather than logging to a flash as I have had to do in past experiments: http://www.robotroom.com/Weather-Station.html

    This was not my first choice of locations for LoFi, but I discovered that a spot of land was already claimed by a toad in a hole.

  • Garage Door Monitor

    David Cook07/14/2014 at 01:22 2 comments

    An example usage of LoFi is to monitor when the garage door opens and closes, as well as when the garage's interior light has been left on.

    LoFi is designed to perform such tasks with minimal added parts and no programming. However, Ralph Doncaster (Nerd Ralph) http://nerdralph.blogspot.com/ commented that LoFi should be able to run on a coin cell. So, this is a good opportunity to experiment with that as well.

    Ralph pointed me to a study demonstrating that a bulk capacitor extends the life of a coin cell by supply current during peak demand of low-duty-cycle devices. I also added a Schottky diode to prevent the battery from being charged when the LoFi board is attached to a computer. I almost learned that lesson the hard way when a nasty smell spewed from one of my NiMh battery packs. An improved board has already been designed to include the coin coil and diode, as well as a capacitor connector.

    A simple cadmium sulfide photoresistor cell detects the brightness of the garage, not only to determine if someone has left the light on, but also as a potential non-mechanical means of detecting a change in the door state. Primarily, the garage door position is detected by a tilt ball switch.

    Given that LoFi should cost less than $5, it only makes sense to use an equally expensive case. LoFi fits well in a Tic Tac box. The container is mounted to the garage door with Velcro hook and loop fasteners.

    I quickly discovered a problem with my steel garage door: it blocked the transmitter signal (L shaped house). The challenge was overcome by repositioning LoFi to the top of the garage door, such that the antenna stuck out above the top panel.

    All in all, this experiment is a success. LoFi correctly detects a change in garage door state, as well as delivers periodic updates on the door position, light level, temperature, and battery voltage.

  • Battery Life Expectancy

    David Cook06/29/2014 at 20:49 3 comments

    Power usage depends on the current of any sensors that you add, as well as how often you configure LoFi to check sensors and transmit. Transmitting consumes approximately 15 mA. Not transmitting, but constantly checking the sensors, consumes about 0.5 mA.

    A more likely scenario for battery operation is where LoFi transmits sensor data periodically or is activated by a trigger switch, say every 10 minutes. In that case, LoFi sleeps most of the time. As you will see, this allows for extremely long battery life.

    This weekend, I coded and tested the sleep mode. LoFi uses the ATtiny watchdog to wake every 1/4 of a second to check whether it is time for a periodic transmission. It also examines the receive pin to see if someone is trying to configure the device. The digital trigger input (which can be connected to vibration or door switches) does not require polling. Instead, it will wake the device immediately.

    On the oscilloscope trace below, you can see LoFi wakes up briefly (narrow vertical spikes) before falling back to sleep. Each spike takes about 4.3 ms (oscillator start up + computations). Then, the transmit time occurs and LoFi takes about 200 ms to read the sensors and transmit the data.

    If a transmission occurred every 10 minutes, here is the average current draw:

    Only 18.5 microamps – thank you Atmel! Plug that into some common batteries:

    So, theoretically, you could run LoFi from a coin cell for a year. If you add a diode, capacitor, and small solar panel, then the life of the coin cell could be extended, as it would act as a backup at night. Realistically, with a pair of AA cells, you could forget about it for many, many years.

    Best of all, since LoFi includes the power supply voltage in the sensor data, you’ll know when it is time to change the batteries.

  • Testing Message Delivery

    David Cook06/26/2014 at 03:04 0 comments

    Summary: Delivery Tester indicates LoFi works well through walls and across the house

    I built a simple test harness in C# .NET that visually displays the success or failure of receiving messages using LoFi on the 433 MHz band. The transmitter is running at 3 volts and is located approximately 75 feet away and down a floor. Each message is 21 bytes in length: 6 byte header, 8 byte message (five analog pins, a digital pin, voltage reference, and internal temperature), and 7 intermingled bytes of Hamming error correction.

    As you can see, most of the messages were delivered successfully (green squares). Those that aren't (blank spots) would be covered by retries or could be ignored if they are highly redundant status updates -- such as for water level or temperature monitoring. Hamming code fixed 11 bit errors. Six bit errors were not corrected and caused some of the bad messages.

    The bad messages generally occur in bursts, usually due to RF interference such as electrical noise or another 433 MHz device. However, as you'll see in the video, the errors towards the end are caused by operator rough handling. So, the actual delivery percentage is much higher.

    Live action video: http://youtu.be/lA8NtvYP6GI

  • Listening to Noise: Do aliens prefer hex 55?

    David Cook06/23/2014 at 22:06 0 comments

    When all of the transmitters are quiet, the receiver is listening to static on AM 433 MHz (see earlier log post). To avoid interpreting static as valid serial data, LoFi requires a message to start with 10 high bits followed by the letter ‘L’.

    Is there a more unlikely-to-randomly-occur value to start a message?

    I told LoFi to report all starting bytes 'acceptably' received from dead air for an hour. It produced 4224 samples or about one every second. There were quiet periods and noisy periods. Here is the frequency histogram:

    One byte per second is not bad, but it should be less often. Oh! There is a bug in the test program where it records additional bytes after the first.

    Before I rerun the tests, let's take a closer look at the distinct values. The lack of bytes with the most-significant bit smells fishy. 0x55 (0b01010101) is the most popular value by far, either because:

    • The receiver is oscillating (probably)
    • Unrelated transmitters use that as a sync byte and LoFi is picking up that traffic (maybe)
    • Or aliens are trying to contact Hack-A-Day readers (plausible)

    Another possibility is electrical noise from nearby equipment. I disconnected LoFi from the Atmel STK500 programming board and sampled again for an hour.

    This time, only 36 errant bytes appeared in an hour. Excellent! They all are 0x55, so 'L' (0x4C) is a perfectly fine start for each message. Excellent!

    This leads me to two conclusions:

    • Always check your test code
    • Disconnect from potential sources of electrical noise, such as your programming board

View all 13 project logs

  • 1
    Step 1

    LoFi is expected to be delivered ready-to-use (prepopulated and preprogrammed). These instructions are for people that want to build LoFi themselves from scratch or are interested for curiosity. These instructions are expected to change as the project nears completion.

    Download and decompress the PCB layout files from this project page.

  • 2
  • 3
    Step 3

    Open the PCB layout folder and locate desired PCB you'd like to have made. For example, LoFi-PCB-Layouts/Sender/LoFi-Sender-v7.zip. Drag that zip file onto the OSH Park web page to upload it.

View all 16 instructions

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Discussions

Eric Tsai wrote 07/23/2014 at 16:00 point
David, we have pretty similar projects. Your MCu design is a lot more battery efficient than mine. I've been using several AA batteries to keep mine running. I'll have to investigate your ATtiny design to see if I could incorporate it into my Arduino sensor node design.

Thanks for the inspiration! I linked your project in my hackaday.

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 08/03/2014 at 21:35 point
Hi Eric -- Thank you. You sure have a wide variety of monitoring ideas on your project page!

I'm using the deep sleep mode with a watchdog interrupt to wake up, if that helps you any. The sensors are powered down until they are read, and my board doesn't use a voltage regulator. So, that definitely keeps current usage to a minimum.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Minimum Effective Dose wrote 07/21/2014 at 22:37 point
I love the concept behind this project, it's fantastic. I'm very excited to see how it develops. Really sharp work.

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 08/03/2014 at 21:26 point
Thank you so much! The listener + receiver + WiFi board (effectively becoming a LoFi hotspot) has just been finished. After the boards arrive I'll post pictures.

  Are you sure? yes | no

radicalbiscuit wrote 07/20/2014 at 05:27 point
I'm excited at the prospects this offers. I've preemptively purchased a few receiver-transmitter pairs and I anxiously await availability.

Two questions, and I must apologize for the first:

When might these be mass produced and available to an end user like me?

What am I supposed to do with all these extra receivers? :P Maybe I can set up multiple receivers for a wider range.

Thanks for your work! I'm most excited about two projects in the world right now: ISEE-3 and this.

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 07/20/2014 at 23:04 point
Hello radicalbiscuit,

Thank you so much for the kind words. It is very motivating when someone posts a positive comment like yours!

1. I've been approached by a wonderful reseller about producing the product. But, I need to finish it first. I'm working on the listener board now (up to this point, I've been using a sender board in reverse.) I can't tell whether it would be viewed positively or negatively by the judges for a product to be 'in stores' before the conclusion of the contest.

2. Ha! I also have a bunch of extra receivers. Whenever I dig in my parts container for a transmitter module, I have to toss a couple of receivers back. Nope. Nope. Yes! Maybe you should start a project called 'Triangulation Using Spare AM Receivers'.

David

  Are you sure? yes | no

radicalbiscuit wrote 08/04/2014 at 19:54 point
While this wouldn't solve the problem of extra receivers, it would utilize transmitters and receivers in pairs: have you considered meshing, standalone Lofi repeaters? The purpose being, of course, to extend range of the system indefinitely.

Similar to APRS, when an error-free message is heard by a receiver/repeater and has not yet been received before, it will transmit the same message, perhaps altered to indicate the number of hops the message has taken. Other repeaters will also transmit the message and in the end, the master receiver picks it up.

This could be well-suited to a wall wart form factor, although wireless functionality may also work well if your receiver commands power efficiency in the same neighborhood as your transmitter.

And there's no reason these couldn't double as the triangulation devices mentioned in your reply to my original comment. Given known locations of the repeaters, a plot of all the Lofi senders on OpenStreetMap is only a calculation away... :D



Once again, thanks for your work. Looking forward to seeing and reading about the new boards!

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 08/05/2014 at 04:17 point
Range hasn't been an issue so far, however you are definitely on to something regarding making a basic mesh network. If you consider a far away or terrain-constrained transmitter at only 3V, a repeating receiver with a 12 V transmitter and nicer antenna could significantly broaden the total network range without adding much cost. Good idea!

  Are you sure? yes | no

Pixel Pirate wrote 07/13/2014 at 07:37 point
Sorry if I'm being OCD, but those traces on your PCB make me cringe...

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 07/13/2014 at 15:18 point
Someone once said, "It should be 'CDO', because then it would be in alphabetical order". But seriously, I'm always open to suggestions. What would you do differently? The Copper Connection file is listed in the downloads. Could you make some sample edits and send the file to me?

  Are you sure? yes | no

Pixel Pirate wrote 07/25/2014 at 22:24 point
Mostly it's just aesthetics cringe. I can't stand routing a trace that isn't a 45 degree angle. Nor can I stand uneven spacing.
IT's just a psychological thing.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Ron wrote 07/01/2014 at 21:38 point
Nice project Mike, wireless and ATtiny is the way to go

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 07/13/2014 at 15:21 point
Thanks Ron. Yes, the ATtiny has so many built-in features that this project needs: oscillator, deep sleep, long-period watchdog wakeup, voltage reference, temperature sensor, EEPROM for settings, and so on.

  Are you sure? yes | no

wifiwaves wrote 06/30/2014 at 17:55 point
David,

Just something for everyone to be aware of...

The FCC has specific requirements for using transmitters. The FCC has made provisions for unlicensed transmitters throughout the radio spectrum. You can operate just about anywhere, but there are restrictions on the field strength, type of emission, and duty cycle that the system designer needs to be aware of before planning and deploying a system.

Unlicensed transmitters are covered under Part 15. The specific section covering these particular transmitters is at:

http://tiny.cc/a519hx

Briefly, the transmitters under discussion in your project are limited by two provisions:

15.231 (a)

The transmit on time is limited to a maximum of 5 seconds. Video, voice, and control of toys is prohibited, and the transmitter must be manually triggered. No periodic operation is allowed, except to verify system operation. In this case, the transmit time is limited to 2 seconds per hour (1/1800 duty cycle).

15.231 (e)

The on-time is limited to a maximum of 1 second. The off-time shall also be at least 30 times the on time, with no less than 10 seconds between transmissions. The key to using this section is to have the system transmit in short bursts, with a 10 second off time. No restriction on application or modes, but you have to pay attention to the duty cycle.

I ran into these issues when I was designing a remotely located turbidity sensor protecting a surface drinking water supply. Our design accommodated these requirements with no particular impact on the device functionality. We are using this long range device:

http://tiny.cc/lg39hx

It should be noted that where the device performs a fire, security, or other life safety function, the device may transmit for the entire duration of the alarm condition. While not prohibited, one should give due consideration to using homebrew devices in such situations. Commercial devices are rigorously tested under numerous circumstances to insure that they will operate properly when necessary.

Good RF design practice guidelines (aside from the FCC requirements) 'require' that a transmitter not use more power than is necessary to accomplish the given communication. This keeps the spectrum cleaner, and allows greater density. It also keeps the power supply requirements lower.

While these transmitters may not be seen at any great distance, following these limitations keeps one from having 'interesting' discussions with the FCC.

Onward and upward...!

wifiwaves

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 06/30/2014 at 22:41 point
This is great information. You clearly have the voice of experience. : )

At present the duration of messages is 200 ms. I'll make the default configuration include a quiet period of 10 seconds.

Fortunately, LoFi is not tied to a specific transmitter, frequency, or antenna. So, it will be possible to select appropriate modules for a region, governing body, or interference profile.

  Are you sure? yes | no

wifiwaves wrote 06/27/2014 at 20:30 point
David...great work!

For those interested in these kinds of transmitters/receivers, here are a ton of devices out there. Search for "key fob remote control" and a plethora of transmitters & receivers will show up. There are a couple of other bands available, most notably 418MHz (with little interference).

I find this device to be extremely helpful when working with these kinds of devices:

http://www.iautomate.com/products/rf-explorer-433-mhz-spectrum-analyzer.html

No pecuniary interest...just a fine device for cheap.

Keep up the great work!

wifiwaves

  Are you sure? yes | no

David Cook wrote 06/29/2014 at 20:54 point
Hi wifiwaves,

Hmmm. 418 MHz sounds very appealing. Thus far, I haven't had problems with interference in my home, but surely other people will. This would give people a choice. Also, perhaps I could build listener that could connect to two receivers, thus permitting more devices.

Thanks for the tip!

David

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Dave Jakopac wrote 06/27/2014 at 18:48 point
David, the Sandwich robot I built--based on your book--still runs in demos at Chibots events. Great project and I'm looking forward to seeing the results.

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David Cook wrote 06/29/2014 at 20:58 point
Hi Dave!

On a recent family vacation, we played a game where we were asked about our most prized personal position. I said 'Sandwich' and my family looked at me like I was crazy. Sure, there's epoxy coming out the coupler, ratty wires, and a few cuts that went slightly too far, but it still works and I built it myself. So, I am sincerely pleased to hear your robot is still running as well.

David

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Alvaro Barcellos wrote 06/27/2014 at 17:53 point
Slow and secure and constant as into the Voyager. My vote sure.
Could open a trend in remote control and sensors.

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David Cook wrote 06/29/2014 at 21:02 point
According to Wikipedia, Voyager has a bit rate of 40 bits/s without error correction. So, I'm pleased to have 1970's technology beat. Oh, wait, it can transmit up to 115.2 kbit/s? Never mind.

Thanks for the vote!

David

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Mike Gordon wrote 06/27/2014 at 13:14 point
This looks great! I can think of multiple uses around the house for a few of these. With that said, how about adding a 1-byte transmitter identifier character to the header to allow for independent sender/transmitters to be used in the same environment? The identifier could be set in the same interface as the trigger parameters.

It doesn't show in the project, but are you also planning a corresponding output module to plug into the 433 receiver? I'm thinking a small board that would read the transmission and duplicate the states out to corresponding analog and digital pins, either momentary, or latching until a new transmission is received that would change a pin's value, or even for a user configurable (on the output board) number of milliseconds

What is the power consumption of the input board and transmitter combination at rest and while transmitting? One application I'm thinking of would be to send an alert when one of 3 doors opens and closes, possibly with a status update on one every 10 mins. I'd like to power it off of a couple AA batteries, but not if I'd have to change them every couple weeks. Any ballpark estimate on that?

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David Cook wrote 06/29/2014 at 21:10 point
Hi Mike,

Currently the header is six bytes and contains:
'L', message length, sender address, message id + retry id, command, subcommand

Therefore, yes!, you can have many transmitters. Also, note the message length byte and command bytes will permit the receiver to be able to deliver a variety of messages that it doesn't know anything about (forward compatibility).

As for the receiver, I am presently using a LoFi sender configured 'backwards'. But, I plan to make a special board to permit direct uplink to WiFi.

As for power consumption, I just added a log post inspired by your question. The answer is: a couple of AAs would power the device for a decade.

David

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João Lucas Torres wrote 06/26/2014 at 21:06 point
Great work! I really love low cost networks. I'm finishing my final course project and it's about infrared networks.

Waiting news of this project.

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David Cook wrote 06/27/2014 at 04:47 point
Thank you for the encouragement. New boards arrived today, so I'll have interesting material to post this weekend.

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Hjorgenogueira wrote 06/22/2014 at 10:25 point
what a great project David, i always thought simple RF without complicate and expensive protocols like zigbee and other would do the trick most of the times...i think i will try to make one of these just to try out, unless if you have already spares ones and are planing to sell these...?!
thanks for the inspiration and sharing with us!

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David Cook wrote 06/23/2014 at 22:15 point
Thank you! When the project nears production quality, I'll remember to upload an object file as well, so that you can program bare chips without having to reproduce the compiler environment. That being said, I am optimistic that the ready-to-run modules will be manufactured and available from our favorite sellers.

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Neal McBurnett wrote 08/29/2014 at 02:59 point
The cool thing about 802.15.4 and stuff like zigbee that builds on it is that besides being a standard, and super-low-power, it can also fit in to a standard homenet, and be addressable securely and globaly via ipv6 (6lowpan). Can you contrast your solution with a cheap, bare-bones 802.15.4 solution in terms of cost, etc?

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David Cook wrote 08/29/2014 at 04:56 point
The XBee module is wonderful and much more powerful.

However, LoFi is:
* Lower cost (about $2 in parts + $1 for the transmitter)
* Lower power (10 mA transmit, 13 uA idle)
* Smaller size

Both have their place. If you simply need something to monitor some analog values (sensors) and run a long time on a coin cell, then LoFi is a good choice. If you need a communication channel, then XBee is a good choice.

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DeepSOIC wrote 06/20/2014 at 22:37 point
I want this one to go straight into our science lab!

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David Cook wrote 06/23/2014 at 22:17 point
All right!

Your thumbnail freaked me out until I clicked on it.

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Mike Szczys wrote 06/20/2014 at 21:18 point
Hi David! This already looks like a fantastic entry for The Hackaday Prize.

I actually stopped by to mention that I'm a huge fan of yours. Your book "Robot Building for Beginners" was the second book I read when beginning to learn about electronics and in my mind the most formative. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge and passion!

Good luck with this entry.

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David Cook wrote 06/21/2014 at 18:57 point
Wow! Thanks Mike. That means a lot to me. I visit Hack A Day daily to learn from others and to be inspired. Your site does so much to encourage science that I absolutely had to contribute an entry to your contest. By the way, I am really impressed with how easy it is to post and edit projects here.

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