yet another portable console! ;-)
roughly the size of a gameboy micro, with a 2.2" display

Similar projects worth following
the idea is to build upon the great PiGrrl - a gameboy-like portable console that is raspberry-pi driven - but to use a single carrier pcb to reduce the size to a gameboy-micro like form-factor.

this project will build upon the open-source (thnx! :-D) plans for different adafruit products and their "learning"-resources to add the different features - and ultimately build a truly compact and portable console

some of the adafruit projects this is inspired by and will be based upon:
the original piggrl:
(its ancestor: )
the pocket variant:
and its second iteration:

Design Goals:

- reduce ratsnest of wires, done with a custom pcb

- use good-quality buttons with better "feel" instead of cheaper/harder 6mm tactile switches

- hand-solderable, using 0805 sized smd components and slightly longer pads on the pcb


- 2.2" 320x240 display (for comparison, the gameboy-micro had a 2"240×160 display)

- 3d printable case, with overall size: 48x103x21mm (gameboy-micro: 50x101x17.2 mm)

- power button, for controlled shutdown of the pi (via a pushbutton - push for on/off, hold to force off)

- audio-out (via pwm, like the raspberry 2)

- 1200mAh LiPo battery connected to an adafruit powerboost 500c

- USB-A socket (reusing the connector that comes with the powerboost pcb, connected to raspberry-zero testpads for USB)

- OS: raspbian running emulation-station (and some support daemons to tie in the hardware)

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  • current state & ABXY buttons

    JohSchneider11/02/2016 at 18:14 0 comments

    been using the Pi-Boy on and off for the last couple of months - works beautifully :-)

    some things need to be redone though;

    - messed up front panel (heat-setting M3-thread *after* painting was a dumb idea...)

    - the power button needs a redesign (button-cap is missing)

    - have to add a bit material to the back/front to close the slight gap between the two

    on a side note: what turned out really well where the ABXY buttons - the combination of the soft-tactile omron switches plus a coat of epoxy feels just right while playing :-D

    the way i build them was:

    - print the button-piece (one part, all four are connected by a bridge - to ease assembly) with the letters indented

    - fill the letters with acrylic paint

    - put a drop of XTC-3D (some other epoxy might work too) on top to form a slight dome

  • milestone: it lives!

    JohSchneider04/09/2016 at 15:27 6 comments

    for the thirtieth log something special - it lives! :-D

    - battery: check

    - display: check

    - controls: check

    - sound: check

    all systems go:

    there are still many rough spots:

    - on the software side there are many daemons still missing (pwm back-light, power management, ...)

    - the system needs further configuration: the buttons currently only work in emulation-station menu, not the emulators (probably sth minor)

    - the case needs further refinement, lots of sanding, priming and a few layers of paint :-)

    - the setup/configuration steps need more documentation or better: scripted as far as possible (rough script already on github)

    - print and assembly instructions?

  • case prototyping

    JohSchneider04/09/2016 at 14:28 1 comment

    creating a 3d printable case from the rough sketches done earlier

    the overall shape was put toghether relatively quickly - but getting the d-pad to feel right took some iterations, the first few where still cross-shaped

    turned out, that shrinking and making it round works better for the alps switch. connecting the ABXY buttons eases installation

    also playing with the back part, for example splitting it in two with overlapping part along the seam:

    which would be printed standing up:

    this would have the upside of a sturdier frame - but on the downside prints waaay longer, with increased risk of print failure and the split/seam doesn't look as nice as a single-pice backside does, paintability would probably be another issue - so i'll stick with the single-piece for now

    btw: the front piece in its current form uses the pause-print-insert-M3-trapped-nuts-resume-print approach:

    STLs to print your own are on github :-)

  • and another minor mistake...

    JohSchneider04/02/2016 at 14:25 2 comments

    another wrong footprint...the push buttons used for start/select group their four pins in pairs - the other way round

    ... really need to learn to double check the datasheet for all components that have more than two leads - even trivial ones like buttons :-P

    oh well - the fix was to desolder the button, cut some traces and amputate a leg >:-)

    updated the pcb layout and pushed the changes to git and osh-park

    update 2016-04-13

    for anyone who happen to have this buggy version, the fix looks like this:

    cut the start/select traces at the red lines, and do not solder the button pads marked with the circle...

  • soldering the remaining components

    JohSchneider04/02/2016 at 14:14 0 comments

    mainly buttons and the usb socket...

    the usb-socket has mounting tabs which i decided to trim down at the side close to the alps-nav switch, just in case the room is needed later on by the 3d printed that'll come ontop of it

    the omron switches chosen for ABXY have some position keys on the back, which have to be trimmed also -- which was a design decision, including holes for those would have interfered with the smd-pads on the other side

    in retrospect it would have been a bit easier to mount the tft last, since it sits close to some solder-pads... but it was still doable

  • Pi Zero PWM Audio - device tree overlay

    JohSchneider04/02/2016 at 11:03 3 comments

    the adafruit guide for pwm-audio on the pi-zero ( ) configures the gpio-alt functions on the fly to remap the audio-pwm pins from hidden ones to pins on the gpio-pinheader
    after reading up on

    device tree configurations and tracking down all necessary pieces, i got this this code snippet/overlay to do the same at boot-time:

    / {
      compatible = "brcm,bcm2708";
      fragment@0 {
        target = <&gpio>;
        __overlay__ {
          pinctrl-names = "default";
          pinctrl-0 = <&pwm_audio_pins>;
        pwm_audio_pins: pwm_audio_pins {
    	brcm,pins = <13 18>;   /* gpio no ('BCM' number) */
    	brcm,function = <4 2>; /* 0:in, 1:out, 2: alt5, 3: alt4, 4: alt0, 5: alt1, 6: alt2, 7: alt3 */
    	brcm,pull = <0 0>;     /* 2:up 1:down 0:none */

    this maps the left channel to pin 33 (BCM=13) and the right channel to pin 12 (BCM=18)

    compiled with:

    dtc -@ -I dts -O dtb -o pwm-audio-pi-zero-overlay.dtb pwm-audio-pi-zero-overlay.dts
    and enabled by appending this line to the /boot/config.txt:

    helpful links: - pins and alt functions for the pi-zeros cpu - the other adafruit guide, touching opi-zero pwm audio - general documentation on devicetrees on raspberry,bcm2835-gpio.txt - documentation on the gpio pinconfig via dtoverlay - good example of gpio config via dt-overlay

  • solder&test MK2

    JohSchneider04/01/2016 at 20:15 0 comments

    ok, again repopulating the board with the components grouped by function (the raspberry-zero and the powerboost 500 are already mounted)

    first: soft-power

    connecting the lipo battery and hitting the power button the pi boots, and pulling the gpio down powers it of :-D

    second: audio

    NOTE: the components in the top right corner are left/right channel = two times the same set, but their placement got a bit mixed up = is not symmetrical... oh well, just have to follow the silkscreen :-P

    Testing the audio with a pair of headphones: works! :-)

    (when nothing is playing - eg the channels are silent - there seems to be a tiny bit of high frequency noise coming from somewhere - and sd-io is also slightly audible... i wonder if that is just due to the anaolog/pwm nature of the system or bad board design/soldering :-S )

    third: backlight and tft display:

    the 2.2" display is held by a metal bracket, which in turn is glued with strips of double sided tape to the donor-pcb.

    a sharp knife makes short work of these:

    reapplied double-sided tape to the bracket and glued it to the pi-boy pcb - aligned to the right edge of the silkscreen square

    Note: are some contacts on the front-side of the pi-boy-pcb that need to be masked of with insulating tape befor glueing down the metal braket!

    transplanting the tft screen:

    * the ribbon cable of the screen was desoldered from the donor-pcb with the previously mentioned tea-candle method

    * pre-tinning the contacts on the pi-boy pcb

    * and finally re-soldering the 14 contact

    * double/tripple check the solder-joints/solder bridges since the contact pitch is ultra small :-P

    powering the hole thing up and we have picture! :-D

    (upside down, but thats easily fixed in the config)

  • hand soldering the raspberry to the baseboard

    JohSchneider04/01/2016 at 13:54 2 comments

    similar projects that mounted the raspberry onto another pcb seem to reflow it in some way or another, with a hot-air rework station or similar tools. the same is doable with a good fine tipped soldering iron.

    these steps seemed to produce good results:

    1) widen the mounting hole near the hdmi to 3mm, which will be used as position key (and later on by a screw holding the case together) - done by hand, very carefully :-)

    2) pre-tin all the surface mount pads on the base-board with a slight (!) amount of solder

    3) use a M3 screw to get an accurate position, clamp the boards together and solder by first heating up the rim of the pin-hole, then feeding solder into it until the hole is roughly half filled. at this point it should connect with the pad below and visibly suck the solder a bit down

    the tip i used fit halfway through the pin-holes, which i could put into the soldered holes that seemed to have a hard time connecting to the pad below (was the case with some of the holes connected to the ground plane, since they sucked the heat away pretty fast)

  • candle-light desoldering

    JohSchneider03/31/2016 at 19:13 0 comments

    not wanting to discard the perfectly good smd-components that are already on the Mk1 pcb a candle-light desoldering session was in order: the Mk1 pcb below - roughly 1cm above the flame of a small tea light candle - and the Mk2 above ready to receive the transplant

    moving the candle under the specific components to desolder; small tweezers in one, the solder iron in the other hand - worked like a charm :-)

  • PCBs Mk2 arrived :-)

    JohSchneider03/31/2016 at 13:57 0 comments

    things of beauty :-D

    time to desolder the Mk1 and populate the Mk2...

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Miity-games wrote 03/27/2022 at 08:20 point

Hi, found this project and was wondering if it will work with zero 2 because of the missing RCA and reset pins on the pi zero 2. 

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MIguel wrote 07/15/2020 at 07:30 point

Hi! I found this project, although it has been a long time, has anyone tried to use a micro gb case? It would be more interesting than a 3d case.

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fabian wrote 07/19/2018 at 14:34 point

Please sell this on tindie or etsy 

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cr15 wrote 02/26/2018 at 15:07 point

Having trouble understanding what's the purpose of the 2.5v regulator, the dual buffer has an input of up to 7v. Meaning you can drive it from either the battery directly or the 3.3v rail on the pi itself. Am I missing something? Also, would have been nice to include dual pads for the buttons, I know you wanted to use those really nice expensive buttons, but honestly I think tact switches would work just fine or the non-smd style that have  through-hole pins. I'm like 50% of the way into the build, screen is working, haven't ordered the all the buttons yet, but the pads on the board are definitely working. Going to work on getting sound up and running soon. Great project, hoping to finish it soon once all my parts come in.

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Eag_elwing wrote 03/08/2018 at 19:34 point

I suspect the separate regulator is to get a cleaner supply to reduce noise... but that is just a guess... I'll be interested on your result, I've lot of noise on mine on the audio output, I suspect it might be because I didn't used the LCD from ladyada, but directly the raw LCDs from china and mine do not have a backing metal support...

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Jordan Reynolds wrote 10/30/2017 at 15:36 point

New to this type of build. How would I acquire the custom PCB Board? 

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Eag_elwing wrote 10/30/2017 at 19:28 point

on the left side of the page, there is a link to OSH park, you can directly order from there, there's a moq of 3 on OSH park through, there is also the gerber files on Github if you want to use another fab, or print/etch the PCB yourself.

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Jordan Reynolds wrote 10/30/2017 at 21:18 point

Hey Thanks! Does the PCB come with the small components attached, or will I need to buy them and solder them on? Wish I could order just one but leaves room for mistakes I guess.

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Eag_elwing wrote 10/31/2017 at 08:45 point

OSH park is a pcb fab, you receive the blank PCB, every other part needs to be sourced yourself. also the soldering is not easy, the creator choose to stay with "large" smd component and enlarged the pads for easier soldering, but I had to resort to a magnifying glass to do it.

There's a Bill of Material CSV file here that list the component, out of my head here's where I sourced my parts:

* the switches ICs and connector: I used Mouser.

* for the passive I used aliexpress to order sets of capacitors and resistors to cut prices, just make sure the sets contains all the values you need and are of the correct size. The batteries also comes from there. I think some transistors and diode also comes from there, globally I took all I culd found on aliexpress and used mouser for the specific hard to find component.

* for the screen, rather than having the hassle to desolder the LCD from adafruit's board, I used the part number that you can find in the BoM to order directly the LCD on aliexpress for far cheaper than on adafruit (shipping is prohibitive here if I buy on adafruit...)

* for this exact reason I ordered the lipo chargers from pimoroni as he has them in stock and shipping is much better for me from his shop, of course your mileage may vary depending on where you're located.

* for the pi zero, your bet is as good as mine price and availability seems to vary a lot.

The interesting fact with mouser is that given the shipping fee and the prices, ordering components for the three PCB cost the same as if you order for just 2 board but that depend of where you are...

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Bartosz wrote 09/26/2017 at 13:08 point

please add 2 usb for normal keyboard and mouse

and .. where I can but it ;-)

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deʃhipu wrote 09/26/2017 at 18:38 point

Just use a raspberry pi zero w and a bluetooth keyboard ;-)

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Eag_elwing wrote 07/17/2017 at 08:43 point

Thanks for your project!

I've more or less successfully made the first few steps, through it wasn't without issues. here is a rundown if it interest someone.


- soldering the pi on the baseboard was not easy, I managed to do it, but I had some debug to do to find three pads that weren't connected. nothing big, there's no real way around this, and the compactness + avoiding the rat-nest easily outweigh the difficulty...

- I place the alps joystick in reverse, my fault, but for your info, one of the photo you have shows the joystick in reverse, it's my fault for not having checked the datasheet there, but you might want to remove that photo. on my side I left the hardware like that, I've no real use for a dpad click, in fact I didn't noticed it before. I did not even needed to short the center click pad to ground as RetroGame support definition of pin "GND" which in fact means that the GPIO will act as a ground.


- I selected a pi zero w, I first used the piggrl image. it worked directly, but I wasn't able to get sound on... the real problem arose when I wanted to connect my piboy to the wifi, only to find out that this image does not support wifi on the pi zero W...

- my next attempt was to use the latest raspbian, then install all on it... everything went fine until I tried to install the screen using the setup screen from adafruit, only to find out that it do not work with the latest raspbian on the pi zero W. I also just noticed you made a great script to do all these at once, but it rely on the same adafruit script that will not run on latest raspbian.

- the following step was to restart with a clean Raspbian, then just use the overlays as the screen is already supported. I got the console working in no time, just to find out that all I got was a black screen when starting emulation station.

- it turns out the screen issue was that emulationstation renders to fb0 while the screen is using fb1. I had to manually get, compile and configure to start automatically a small program called fbcp to copy fb0 to fb1.

- but I lost possibility to use console as it was constantly overwritten by fbcp, not a big deal, I just had to switch console from fb1 to fb0 and all was fixed.

As you can see I had lots of fun for my first SMD device and for my first linux project too... next step will be to source a correct battery (using a random one I had around). then try to get some case printed (that will also be a first btw). I also have some trouble with the audio. it work, but it is really noisy, how is your sound? there the noise is really at a similar level than the sounds. (I fear it might be because the screen I used didn't had that metallic support yours have...)

Thanks for your great project, it's fun so far.

rundown for the software on pi zero W so far:

- use the latest raspbian image.

- boot first one time to expand the filesystem.

- use an external tft + keyboard to enter wifi settings to "wpa_supplicant.conf"

- plug the SD back into your other computer to:

- create the SSH file to allow SSH access.

- edit config.txt to:

- uncomment "dtparam=spi=on".

- add the pitft22 overlay (it's something like "dtoverlay=pitft22,rotate=90,speed=60000000,fps=40")

- add pwm overlay for sound ("dtoverlay=pwm-2chan,pin=13,func=4,pin2=18,func2=2"?)

- edit cmdline.txt to add console on fb0.

- plug back the sd on the piboy and connect remotely through SSH.

- download/compile and install fbcp.

- install retrogame.

- edit Retrogame.cfg for the correct key mapping.

- install RetroPie.

what's left:

- install pi-blaster for backlight control.

- install powerbutton deamon for shutdowning using the button.

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Eag_elwing wrote 10/30/2017 at 09:55 point

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davedarko wrote 10/30/2017 at 10:33 point

woah, that's a beauty! congratulations! I also like the ice cream colors :)

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Soul_Est wrote 10/31/2017 at 19:01 point

Very well done on your build there! Thank you for posting your steps on getting it working as well!

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John Wells wrote 01/29/2017 at 18:36 point

I've assembled the power, pi, and buttons, but I'm having trouble desoldering the LCD ribbon. I tried the candle technique but it didn't seem to get hot enough and I ripped the traces off the ribbon. I will try again tomorrow getting the candle closer to the bottom of the board. If anyone has any other tips for this that would be helpful.

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JohSchneider wrote 02/09/2017 at 18:59 point

the candle method takes some time and patience...

best use one of those third-hand-clamps to hold the pcb, point the candle at the PCB-backside roughly where the LCD-traces are (with the LCD folded away, so it doesn't get hot) and wait for the candle to heat the PCB and melt the solder

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John Wells wrote 01/15/2017 at 21:01 point

I plan to build three of these in the next week or so. I will link to my build log afterwards. I have read the build log and looked at the git repo. I would also like to contribute to the project and have submitted an application. (Tbh idk if that is necessary since my contributions will likely be all software, so maybe GitHub would be a better place for me to be a contributor.) 

Is there anything not in the build log that I need to know before I order the parts and pcbs?

Also do you have any objection to my selling one of them to recoup my costs?

Also what do you think it would take to add a piezo speaker which shuts off when headphones are connected? Could it be done with a spare gpio and some software trickery to detect headphones? Maybe something like is commonly done for gpio capacitive sensing where you put a pin high and see how long it takes to drain capacitance when pulled low?

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JohSchneider wrote 02/09/2017 at 20:30 point

looking forward to a build-log! :-D

and no - no objections if yo want to resell one

a speaker might be doable, but would probably need some amplifier - and the pcb is kinda full :-s

also i did exclude any form of speaker (like many other retropie/raspbery-gamboys have) on purpose... since i didn't want to annoy my peers with the retro-noise, and it just drains the battery and eats up space in the case-design :P

btw: just updated the git with software related stuff - if you have any changes/updates/suggestions or find bugs: give me a pull request :-)

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Edu Arana wrote 01/15/2017 at 07:41 point

Beautiful and very well documented project! Congrats!

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salmanisheikh wrote 01/10/2017 at 17:21 point

I built one back in April or May but have been so busy.  The plan is to build one 3 total and I have parts and most of 3 built up (except for the pizero and displays and powerboost on 2 of them). My colleagues at work are going to split the cost of the parts. But I don't know how to start trouble shooting the thing.  

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Jeremy g. wrote 07/29/2016 at 23:57 point

where did you source your joypad? I know its alps but from what vendor did you get it?

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slowill wrote 08/01/2016 at 15:18 point

I got mine from  Search for SKRHAAE010

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slowill wrote 07/29/2016 at 04:12 point

Any tips for the D pad?  Printed out a few and having trouble getting a good fit.  Thinking about some kind of glue.   Thanks!

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Jeremy g. wrote 07/14/2016 at 23:27 point

Is this stable enough to build as of yet? I finally got my hands on a bit of unobtainium.

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JohSchneider wrote 07/25/2016 at 17:17 point

hehe - sure...

haven't found any bugs so far and it basically works (but haven't had much opportunity to use it either :-s)

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Jeremy g. wrote 07/25/2016 at 17:24 point

No worries, I just like handheld consoles. And really have nothing to do with any of my Rasperry Pi's plus I'm fairly good with Linux and python so I'll let you know when and if I find any bugs.

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slowill wrote 06/27/2016 at 01:33 point

Can you tell me what software you used for the 3d blowup models?  Thanks

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JohSchneider wrote 07/01/2016 at 18:02 point

that was done with blender (cycles used for rendering) :-D

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salmanisheikh wrote 05/24/2016 at 09:27 point

How do I bypass to power it up without a start switch and powerboost (not ordered yet)? 

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JohSchneider wrote 05/25/2016 at 11:48 point

hm, if those parts are not soldered yet, powering the raspberry normally via its micro-usb should work (not recommended if you have the powerboost soldered, since power would backflow into it)

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salmanisheikh wrote 06/02/2016 at 17:15 point

I got the Powerboost500C. It seems the black connector on the side that attaches to my LIPO is blocked by the USB connector on the Pi Grrl pcb. Is that connector supposed to be used or the microusb to power the board? My LIPO 2-bin battery connector will not fit in with the USB type A connector I have installed in there blocking the way. I will try to upload a photo to show what I mean before soldering in the PowerBoost500C. 

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JohSchneider wrote 06/02/2016 at 18:00 point

regarding powerboost and blocked connector: yes,that tradeoff is intentional (see project logs) - simply solder the lipo directly to the battery through-hole pins on the powerboost

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commandercopper wrote 05/17/2016 at 10:55 point

Really exciting project! Adafruit released the official PiGRRL Zero a frew days ago. But I'm looking forward to your project because the size is much smaller and compact, so hopefully I'm going to build yours soon!

Link to Adafruit:

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JC wrote 05/20/2016 at 18:11 point

I'm in the same boat. I like this one way better but this one does seem to require more skill. This project even inspired me to finally go out and get a 3D Printer!

I'm wondering BTW if @JohSchneider you've done any further development on it and taken care of some of the "rough spots" you mentioned in your last update.

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JohSchneider wrote 05/22/2016 at 19:36 point

yeah,saw the official piggrl zero too - was a little disappointed that they build custom pcbs but stuck with those horrible tactile switches, and designed the case bulkier than needed :P

mine sits on the edge of the desk and waits for a me to come back and continue working on it - the dreaded 95% done ;-)

recently i was playing with yocto to build a custom/minimal image/kernel, but that didn't went far... the only two major things not finished are on software side (soft-power needs some kernel changes, and pwm-backlight needs attention too - from a configuration side) - atm i consider the hardware side as done

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salmanisheikh wrote 05/17/2016 at 00:53 point

Where is the kicad board file? I am trying to figure out the value of a three components above U3.  After that and the powerboost (yet to order) and I will have one complete.  I can power directly from a +5V supply in the meantime right? 

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JohSchneider wrote 05/22/2016 at 19:22 point

you can find the kicad boardfiles in the linked git repo :) (under misc/ are even generated schematics/layout-files/... for each revision i pushed to oshpark)

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JohSchneider wrote 04/25/2016 at 14:11 point

@salmanisheikh: yes - the registration keys on the omron switches need to be trimmed; see /project/9467-pigrrl-zero/log/35096

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salmanisheikh wrote 04/25/2016 at 14:32 point

Cool, I was going to call them nipples but that sounds perverse. Registration keys sounds better. Yeah, I filed them. I realized I forgot to buy the directional joystick thingy with my $53 (3 sets) of parts order from mouser that I got in Friday. Arrgh. My colleague is printing the in glow in the dark PLA..3 of us are building them. BTW, We found a cheap $10 alternative to the display (its exact same as Adafruit but cheaper). 

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JohSchneider wrote 04/28/2016 at 15:38 point

wow - take some pictures when you're done building :-D (mine still waits for another layer of paint...)

yeah, there are other compatible screens marketed at the arduino crowd with that exact ili9341 screen out on amazon/ebay - got one of those too :P

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salmanisheikh wrote 04/11/2016 at 17:13 point

I ordered and got the pcbs of your previous revision from osh-park. Can you tell me what changes I need to make to the pcb and traces explicitly? I hope I didn't just waste $35 for 3 pcb boards :(

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JohSchneider wrote 04/13/2016 at 13:54 point

damn... previous as in the 2016-03-13 version? then the fix is easy, i'll update the project log ( /project/9467-pigrrl-zero/log/35097) and add a picture, showing the fix

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salmanisheikh wrote 04/13/2016 at 16:44 point

Saw the update..awesome. I have cut traces so looks like an easy fix. Thanks.

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salmanisheikh wrote 04/24/2016 at 03:31 point

the Omron buttons have two little plastic protrusions on bottom that prevents them from sitting flat on pcb. Did  you sand them down or let button not flush/skewed?

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