Modular WiFi-Switch

Modular ESP8266 Wi-Fi switch to the installation in switch boxes.

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The WiFi switch consists of three PCBs.

Part 1 = Switch and Display
Part 2 = WLAN and Logic Stuff
Part 3 = Power and Powerswitch

As a basis I use a switch from "JUNG":
Frame: "AS 581"
Switch: "AS 506"

The PCBs are compatible with other switches with EU standards like GIRA, Becker ... up to Part 1 since the PCB is different in size, I will test this later.

The idea !

Commercial solutions are usually not reprogrammable the protocol is not known or difficult to find out, moreover expensive and not expandable for the own branches.

Commercial IoT devices are mostly cloud bound, the data is not in the hands of the Owner but at the Manufacturers this is not good.

Change that builds more IoT with your own servers !!!

Why so many boards?

I want to make the whole thing so that the technology can easily change, expand or optimize without having to make something completely new.

What is planned ?

I am still not sure what still comes, ideas I have some but whether they are afterwards usable I know not yet, z.b. You can install a PIR sensor at the PART1 or a radar module ...

Status for the three PCBs:

PARTDescriptionPlaning / Order / Tested
1Two Capacitive switches and OLEDDone / Done / ---
2ESP8266 and I/ODone / Done / Done
3100-240V Input, Triac or Relay Out
--- / --- / ---


Part1 - Switch and OLED - V1.1 Schematic

x-kicad-schematic - 478.31 kB - 04/26/2017 at 10:19



Part1 - Switch and OLED - V1.1 Board

x-kicad-pcbnew - 111.58 kB - 04/26/2017 at 10:19



Part2 - WLAN - V1.0 Schematic

x-kicad-schematic - 596.49 kB - 03/17/2017 at 09:11



Part2 - WLAN - V1.0 Board

x-kicad-pcbnew - 110.08 kB - 03/17/2017 at 09:11


View all 4 files

  • Found the Error on the OLED

    Knudt2 days ago 0 comments

    A small flaw in the circuit, I update the PCB in the next days.

    Mistake on PIN 14/11 I'm not sure why, there are various circuits in the network which are so constructed and functioning

  • Power Adapter

    Knudt4 days ago 0 comments

    I ordered some Voltage Transformers.

    From Left to right:

    Hi-Link, HLK-PM03, IN: 100-240V 50-60Hz, Out: 3.3V / 1A

    MEAN WELL, IRM-03-3.3, IN: 100-240V 47-63Hz, Out: 3.3V / 900mA

    AIMTEC, AMEOF3-3.3SLJZ, IN: 85-264V 50-60Hz, Out: 3.3V / 470mA

    The one from AIMTEC still needs extra components.

  • Part1 - Tested - Fail

    Knudt5 days ago 0 comments

    Tested not working, the OLED says nothing, the touch Buttons work.

    Unfortunately, I currently have not much time for the project but I work on it.

  • Part1 - PCBs from OSHPark

    Knudt04/21/2017 at 12:00 0 comments

    I test the PCBs in the next days.

  • Questions from the Users

    Knudt04/09/2017 at 10:22 0 comments

    I am currently getting from many users the question how I solve the problem with the neutral conductor, in Germany this is almost always present when laying in hollow walls, and if this is not available, he is very easy to pull from the distributor without opening the wall.

  • Board and Schematic - Part 1/2

    Knudt03/28/2017 at 09:16 0 comments

    A bit more I have done now, Part1 is so far finished and can be ordered, minor improvements are still missing.

    I have decided for two Capatzitive buttons which are controlled with an AT42AT1010, as a first display is a 0.96 "OLED which can be replaced by a 1.3" OLED.

    I have noticed something to buildability and the components so that they can be soldered by hand.

  • Part2 - Tested

    Knudt03/17/2017 at 09:10 0 comments

    Part2 is tested and functional, add PCB data to the Downloads

  • Part2 - Arrived

    Knudt03/15/2017 at 10:03 0 comments

    Arrived by OSH Park, looks really chic, unfortunately I will come in the coming days for placement and testing.

  • Brainstorming

    Knudt03/10/2017 at 18:34 0 comments

    A small drawing as I imagine, the switch box has a depth of 60mm, the PCB stack sticks ~ 26mm inside, ~ 34mm left for the cabling.

  • Status

    Knudt03/04/2017 at 08:37 0 comments

    I'm planning on Part 1 (Switch and Display), Part 2 (WLAN and Logic) is Ordered at #OSHPark.

    So I have to be patient.

View all 10 project logs

Enjoy this project?



breezecar wrote 6 days ago point


I want to make this kind of project but i need to design the pcb for the wall outlet, you made this pcb with what eda software?

  Are you sure? yes | no

Knudt wrote 5 days ago point

Whit the Free Version of Eagle >8.0.1

  Are you sure? yes | no

xose.perez wrote 04/09/2017 at 19:59 point

I have been recently working on a very similar project. I decided to go for the HLK-PM01 as @roquestrogo suggests. Along with a SPDT relay everything fits in my house wall gangs.

  Are you sure? yes | no

roquestrongo wrote 04/08/2017 at 01:21 point

I bulit some stuff for home automation with the ESP for powering I am using the cheap Hi-Link switching power suply with print layout HLK PM 01/03 .... I got that supply together with two Relays and a esp fit on a board that fits iside a german UP wall box. That module is used as a actuator for my window shutters.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Chris Yokum wrote 04/07/2017 at 18:47 point

Your ESP-12F symbol looks like the one with the GPIO4/GPIO5 pins reversed..

  Are you sure? yes | no

Knudt wrote 04/08/2017 at 09:27 point

Yes, the software are defined, I use the because I have ever had a mistake since that I always do so.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Thomas wrote 04/05/2017 at 10:07 point

it should make more sense to do the power unit for 110V-230V, also a triac or thyristor should do it because then you are able to dim a lamp. Also the 15mm of height are very critical when you use a relay. How you plan to to the supply from 110V-230V? What is the power consumption of the OLED display and the ESPI board?

  Are you sure? yes | no

Knudt wrote 04/06/2017 at 07:08 point

I have a little more space than 15mm I'm looking at finished modules for the supply of the smallest have about 16-18mm, or transformers of "HAHN" with a construction height of 12-16mm and 300mA / 5V which also suitably defend.

Dimmen is not planned with me, but the whole is deviated on several boards so that one can easily reconstruct.

The power consumption for the OLED when all the pixels are on is ~ 25mA, the ESP pulls 200mA when sending, I would like to get 300mA of power supply to have spare for extensions.

  Are you sure? yes | no

Thomas wrote 04/06/2017 at 08:36 point

Nice. I would do a switch mode power supply with a wide input range from 100 to 250V.  5V and 300mA is not to much :)

  Are you sure? yes | no

Chrunchstick wrote 03/17/2017 at 11:35 point

How do you plan to power this unit? Is a neutral wire in the switch box necessary?

  Are you sure? yes | no

Knudt wrote 03/17/2017 at 13:05 point

I plan two different power modules, one for 12V and one for 110V-230V this will need the neutral conductor.

  Are you sure? yes | no

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